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Yeongtong in November, Take 2

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while back I wrote how I had been enjoying what seemed to be an especially long autumn here in Yeongtong-dong. Over the past few weeks I’ve been gradually editing some of the pictures from this post, and this is what I’ve come up with.

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I’ve been trying to share these out on the Internet to gauge the quality of them, and it’s not easy. While I use flickr for many photographs, I get a lot of views this way, but little in the way of likes or comments. In comparison, I’ve been trying out the photography site 500px.com also, and while the appreciation levels can be quite high, less appreciated photographs seem to get little to no views at all. If anything I find myself chasing after a higher pulse score with every upload, and to be honest I find the lack of likes for some pictures I’m proud of quite disheartening. At least with flickr I can rely on a higher number of views, although I never really know who the viewers are.

So I’m not sure where I really stand. Are my photos actually good, or are they not, or are they just suffering for that eternal internet problem of being one more tiny pixel in a hundred billion others? I think I already know the answer.


Dec6)Training Log:Acro yoga/Handstanding/1hand pushup

On Dadhood: The Earliest Notions

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I am sitting typing at the computer now while intermittently sucking and grimacing on an ice cold Hite Dry Finish. I have just put +1 to bed after battling with an increasing fever throughout day, alone I should add, because Herself had gone to Seoul and I was filling in as Herself was exhausted, not […]

Rainbow Teen Safe Space

The Necessity of Lying in Korea

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Picture by  Stepher Uhlmann http://su2.info/gallery/stills/lie (http://artlibre.org/licence/lal/en)

One of my favourite writers and speakers currently is the neuro-scientist and philosopher Sam Harris.  In his most recent book, "Lying" his sets-out his case that the world, and indeed our individual lives, would be a much better if we dispensed with the fibs and were just honest in almost every situation.  He gives some examples of when lying might be necessary, but they mainly involve situations that could reseult in violence and therefore lying then becomes a means of self-defense (I will let you imagine some scenarios).

I personally agree with him, we would undoubtedly be better-off if we could all be more honest with each other.  However, I have noticed how difficult it is to meet his suggested challenge of consciously making a point not to lie (even the tiny ones) for a whole week - to see how often we might do it - while living in Korea.

In a society with Confucian values, elders are to be respected at all costs and I do think this puts extra pressure on the ability to be honest; sometimes honesty actually feels disrespectful and when the clashing values of two different cultures go at each other head-on this can cause some significant difficulties which may necessitate lying.  Even without cultural differences Koreans appear to lie to each other surprisingly regularly, especially when it comes to their family, which has shocked me a little.  Since day one, I have always disliked respect culture because of this necessity to lie.  It is not a measure of true respect that one needs to lie to people and especially family, I think it shows the opposite and the behaviour is more motivated by social pressure and fear.  In this confusion between fear and respect, South Korean culture makes the same mistake as the regime in North Korea.

The times I am regularly tempted to dish-out a few porky pies occur in two situations in Korea, at work and with my wife's family and I am going to give a few examples of dilemmas that have cropped-up from time to time.

When it comes to my in-laws, my wife tends to do the lying for me, partly because I am exquisitely uncomfortable with it and also because my Korean is not quite up to it.  One, rather massive fib we told my in-laws occurred a couple of years ago during my winter vacation from work.  There was only a small window my school allowed me to get away for a few weeks and I was thinking about a trip to Indonesia.  The only time I could get away, however, clashed with theKorean New Year holiday (Seollal).  My wife told me that her parents would never allow me go away at this time and that I should be with the family; my response was to say, "Well, I am not asking them, I will go if I want to, period."  Knowing that this would be a problem (my poor wife is often stuck in the middle in cultural problems such as this), my wife told her parents that I was going home to visit my family in England.  With the tensions that are often experienced and expected between the parents of married couples in Korea and the importance of family, they would not disapprove of this. 

To me, this seemed a bit immoral, I would have rather stood-up to them, apologised, and ultimately tried to explain how important travel and new experiences were to me and my freedom to make my own choices.  On good authority, however, I have been told many times that such a show of honesty would have been a big mistake if I valued my marriage.

These sorts of situations occur quite a lot; I have often got last minute requests to join my parents in-law for drinks with their friends - on a couple of occasions just as I was preparing to go to bed.  I simply refuse, which gives my wife headaches, but again she lies and says I am sick or I have an English class with someone or some other work to do.  I have to say, I have become more comfortable with doing this as time goes by.

Of course one of the tricky things with all this lying is the potential to slip-up at a later date because you have to remember all the lies you've told (as Sam Harris mentions in his book).  Even this aspect of lying is something I find completely different in Korea to living in England.  I find in England, people really are more interested in the truth, and especially parents, but in Korea not so much.  I believe the showing of respect holds greater importance.  This all means I rarely, if ever, get tested on the lies my wife and I have told.  In the Indonesian example, I visited there in January and February and came back with a markedly different skin tone, with tan lines where I had worn sunglasses.  Now, it could be that my in-laws were just ignorant of English weather in January and February, but they never remarked on this rather telling sign.

"He who is not sure of his memory should not undertake the trade of lying" - Montaigne


In fact, they never test me or my wife, ever.  I suspect they know, at least sometimes, when my wife lies to them to avoid conflict in such cases, but I am convinced that they don't really care.  The above quote is simply not relevant to me.  Goldfish can get away with lying in most situations in South Korea.

When it comes to my job, I have also had circumstances where being honest has become incredibly difficult.  Duty and being part of the group are very important factors in Korean culture and this holds particular relevance at work.  One of my personal bug-bears with Korean culture is the forced participation and enjoyment of workplace functions and activities.  I think it is particularly troublesome for women, but I have found it rubs me up the wrong way also.  Obligatory attendance at staff dinners and outings (and the forced drinking that results) are things that I am sure many Koreans hate about their culture, especially as they have to pay for them.  On paper they are not mandatory, but everyone knows the consequences for not joining in, which include ostracism at work, a generally harder time at work, and even bullying and the loss of a job or promotion opportunities.  The whole thing is one huge mess of dishonesty; younger, lower-ranked workers never want to participate, yet say they do and all the older, higher-ranked workers know the younger ones don't want to join them, but make them do it anyway.  They are lies the culture necessitates and that everyone accepts.

A special case of this occurred with me at around the time leading-up to my school's yearly festival, often quite a big deal in Korea.  It was the time of Gangnam Style's height of popularity and so it was decided that some of the younger teachers would do a Gangnam Style dance routine as a performance.  Most of the younger Korean teachers had been practicing for about 3 weeks before I was finally asked if I wanted to join in.  After replying that it wasn't really my cup of tea in as polite a manner as I could, several times, I was cajoled into going to a practice session.  The reality of it was they were demanding that I'd be in the centre of the performance and practice "diligently" (as they like to say) outside of my school hours to get up to speed with the rest of them.  The routine was also devilishly complicated for a slightly reserved Englishman with two left feet.  On top of it all, I had really grown a special hatred for that song because of the Korean obsession with it at the time and the amount it had been played.

Needless to say then, I refused to join in with the rest of them and no matter how many times I said this, "no" was simply not an answer they were willing to accept.  I was beginning to think I should have lied, like I had a bad knee or something, I think I would have only needed to say this once and then they would've eased-off and I would have heard nothing more about it.  Instead, though, I was hounded and told in the end that it was my obligation to do it.  With my heckles raised at this point, I tried very hard not to get angry and calmly disagreed.  I eventually had to sneak out of the school when they were not looking to get out of one more practice session, which they were going to physically drag me into doing.  I actually had to craftily tip-toe my way out of the door, can you believe it, no honesty was going to get me out of this mess.

The result of this was the cold shoulder treatment for a month or so and the implicit suggestion that they might not renew my contract for the next year.  If I had lied, my life would have been a hell of a lot easier and they would have liked me more.

On a smaller and more regular scale, one of the teachers I truly like at my school often takes me out for lunch every week.  While I appreciate this, I become a little uncomfortable because he always pays and I am saving for emigrating to Australia, so I cannot return the favour.  He is still happy to pay, but I really feel as though I am in his debt.  I also really enjoy the lunches at my school and this doesn't eat-up my entire lunchtime, like it does when I go out for lunch with him.  I wish we could just have lunch together in the school canteen.  In Korean culture, though, I just don't think being honest with him is feasible without causing a fair bit of offence.  At the time of writing, I just refused the offer of a biscuit from the admin lady in my office and her reaction was as if I had just ran over her dog or something, she looked genuinely upset.  I should have lied about wanting the biscuit and just hid it under some papers on my desk if I didn't want to eat it.

I'm not saying I never lie or that I am perfect, but I do try and live my life as honestly as I possibly can and I can remember past lies that came back to bite me when I was found out.  Having to remember all one's untruths is also a hassle I could really do without.  Along with the practical reasons for not lying, I feel a pang of guilt surging through me that makes me extremely uncomfortable when I do lie, so I still don't do it very much, even in Korea.  I do often let others do the lying for me though in Korea, and this is especially relevant with my wife and her parents.

In Western society too, being honest can hurt you, and I think Sam Harris brought-up the examples of people who exaggerate their CVs (resumes) having an advantage in employment over those who are honest and write a true CV.  However, I strongly feel that honesty is far more valued in Western countries, and if you are discovered to be lying this is deplored far more than in Korea at least, and possibly Far Eastern culture generally.  I also think people in Western countries are more interested in exposing liars and this holds especially true for parents and their children.

With this in mind then, while I agree whole-heartedly with Sam Harris about an honest world being a better one and a honest life being better for the individual, I must say that I think it depends.

I think Korean society would certainly be a better one if people lied less, just like Western society would be, but for the individual I am left scratching my head a little as to the best answer.  When it comes to our everyday lives, I think it is much easier to be honest in Western culture and that the fruits of the labour of being honest can be enjoyed fairly swiftly.  In a respect-based culture like Korea, on the other hand, I am more sceptical; honesty in this culture can cause real problems, not just in getting ahead in matters to do with work, but also in relationships generally.  For the benefits of not lying to show themselves to the individual, the whole culture would have to change, but I don't think this is the case in the West.






Seondosa Temple/King Jinheung Tomb – 선도사/진흥왕릉 (Gyeongju)

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Seondosa Temple/King Jinheung Tomb – 선도사/진흥왕릉 (Gyeongju)

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 The triad of statues that you can find at Seondosa Temple in western Gyeongju.

Hello Again Everyone!!

This weekend, I decided to head back to Mt. Seondosan to visit Seondosa Temple. Originally, it had been part of the plan the day I toured around Gyeongju with David Mason; but it was late in the day, so it was scrapped for another day. Well, that other day turned out to be this past weekend.

Mt. Seondosan, which is on the western part of Gyeongju, was regarded as the Pure Land in Korean Buddhism by the Silla people. This was especially true of the peak area of the mountain, which is where Seondosa Temple is located.

You first approach the trail head area of the climb just north of four royal tombs, one of which is the Silla king’s, King Jinheung (more on him later). There are in fact two trail heads, one to the left and one to the right. I would suggest the much easier road trail to the right; but unfortunately (and unknowingly), I took the much tougher left trail. In total, the hike to the top of Mt. Seondosan, which stands 390 metres tall, is about a kilometer in length. However, if you take the overgrown trail, like me, it will seem twice that distance. As you take this trail, which leads past several laypeople’s tombs, you’ll quickly notice that much of the landscape has been scorched by a recent fire. This has made the mountain landscape haunting in parts.

When you finally do get to the top of the mountain, with whichever trail that you’ve taken, you’ll be greeted by a wall of buildings. The very first building of the set is the Samseong-gak shaman shrine hall, which lies between a storage building and the monks’ dorms. This building looks a lot like the storage shed beside it, but don’t be fooled because there are three highly original paintings inside of this building. The first of the set, and the one hanging in the centre, is a Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) mural. In the painting, there is a large ferocious tiger looking over Sanshin’s shoulder. And both Sanshin and the tiger are joined by a pair of white cranes and red pine trees. To the left of the Sanshin mural is probably the most original Yongwang (The Dragon King) mural I have yet to see at a Korean temple. Yongwang is joined by a pair of attendants and a pair of expressive dragons that swirl around in the mural. The final mural of the set lies to the right and is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars).

Past the monks’ dorms lies the diminutive main hall at Seondosa Temple. Unfortunately, this hall was locked when I visited, so I was unable to see inside. But to the left of the main hall, and just around the corner, is the real highlight to Seondosa Temple: the Buddha Image Carved on the Rock Surface in Seoak-dong, Gyeongju.

This large rock triad is centred by a highly disfigured Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). In total, this central figure stands in relief at 6.85 metres in height. The face of Amita-bul has been split on either side (not sure if this was on purpose or through age), and Amita-bul’s face is now shaped like a V. In fact, Amita-bul’s entire body is well worn and almost indistinguishable in parts. Amita-bul is joined to the left by a crowned Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Like Amita-bul, Gwanseeum-bosal is damaged on its left side. To the right stands Daesaeji-bosal (The Power and Wisdom of Amita-bul). Of the three statues, Daesaeji-bosal is the least damaged of the lot. It’s believed the triad dates back to the 7th century.

A bit smarter, and more aware, I decided to take the road trail back down the mountain. This allowed for some more amazing, yet haunting, views of Mt. Seondosan. When you finally do get near the base of the mountain, you’ll come across four royal tombs. The first, and perhaps most important tomb, as you make your way down the mountain, is King Jinheung’s tomb. King Jinheung reigned from 540 to 576 A.D., and he was the 24th king during the Silla Kingdom. King Jinheung was a strong advocate of Buddhism. He did this so he could strengthen the nation. He also founded the famed hwarang, who were a group of warrior youths. King Jinheung also annexed the neighbouring Gaya Kingdom, which further expanded Silla territory. The tomb itself measures 20 metres in diameter and 5.8 metres tall. And out in front of the tomb are two memorial tablets dedicated to the prominent king, King Jinheung.

HOW TO GET THERE: First, you’ll need to get to Gyeongju, if you want to see Seondosa Temple. From the Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal, you can catch a taxi to get to the east side of Mt. Seondosan and Seondosa Temple. The taxi will cost you about 4,000 won, and it’ll take about 10 minutes. From where the taxi drops you off, you should be able to see the trail head markers that lead you towards Seondosa Temple. Take the road trail that is a much easier kilometre hike than the bushwhacking trail I took.


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OVERALL RATING:6/10.While a bit of a trek to get to, Seondosa Temple has a beautiful and ancient triad of reliefs waiting for you. The highly disfigured reliefs are unique in their own right, and different from most anything you’ll see in all of Gyeongju. Add to it the highly original shaman paintings and the view, and you’ll have a good reason to make the kilometre hike. Then, when you take into consideration the rest that Mt. Seondosan has to offer, like King Jinheung’s tomb, you’ll have an even better reason to visit this little traveled part of Gyeongju.

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 A kilometre that way to Seondosa Temple.

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 The golden fall colours of Mt. Seondosan.

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 And the haunting remains of a forest fire on Mt. Seondosan.

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Nearing the peak of Mt. Seondosan with a combination of burnt trees and autumn colours.

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The first view of Seondosa Temple.

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Both the triad of statues and the main hall at Seondosa Temple.

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A closer look at the triad of statues with Amita-bul in the centre joined by Gwanseeum-bosal and Daesaeji-bosal on either side.

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An up close and personal with the fractured Amita-bul.

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The view from the main hall down onto Gyeongju below.

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The storage shed-looking Samseong-gak shaman shrine hall at Seondosa Temple.

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Inside the Samseong-gak, and rather uniquely, this Sanshin painting hangs in the centre on the main altar.

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To the left is this highly expressive painting of Yongwang.

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The much easier road trail that leads to the base of the mountain.

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Along the way, you’ll come across the tomb of King Jinheung (to the right).

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The memorial tablets that rest in front of King Jinheung’s tomb.

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 One last look before completing the decent.

KTO Cheorwon Tour PT. 2

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Day 2 started early with a trip to the Togyo reservoir to watch geese and other migratory birds do what they do best… migrate. Sadly the weather was not on our side that day and a thick fog rolled in, obscuring our view of pretty much everything. It still was great to see this mysterious fog and the sounds of the birds flying overhead. Soon it was breakfast time and a bowl of jook and fresh locally grown food hit the spot. Many of the vegetables were grown on site which is something you don’t find too often in the cities.

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Our second location was another bird-watching site. With out the aid of a 600mm lens it was a pretty pointless venture but it was a good walk and it felt like my days following my father out goose hunting… except we were in spitting distance  of North Korea. At any rate, the red-crown cranes and white-naped cranes are common in the area and thanks to Keith Homan, I now know the difference between the two.  After hiding out and trying to photograph through the fog we took a trip to the Cheorwon Peace Observatory.

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With the fog so thick there was not much to “observe” but we did learn a lot about the area. What makes this place kind of cool is that there is a cathedral and a Buddhist temple right next to each other. I am sure there is a story behind this. It is interesting to walk up to the observatory and see Mother Mary on one side and Buddha on the other.

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Following the observatory we headed to Woljeongni Station and then the DMZ Peace Park that looked out across to North Korea. For not-so-obvious reasons, we could not take pictures of the barren landscape in front of us. However the rest of the park was fine. The soldiers were quite nice about it stating simply “please don’t take any picture that way or our government will punish you”

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The next  stop was supposed to be the Labor Party Building or Nodongdangsa.  This is an interesting building as it was “the former regional headquarters of North Korea’s ruling party” (Seoul Magazine). However, restoration efforts were in place to preserve this decaying/shot-up relic of the Korean War. I did get out and walk around the site to look through the annoying green screens and scaffolding to try and get some shots.

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The  second to last stop was Dopiansa Temple.  An old temple that would have been really beautiful in the summer with the lotus ponds and everything. Sadly here too restoration efforts were taking place and it looked more like a construction site than serene temple. I did man-up the courage to ask an elderly gentleman if I could take his picture. He said “no” at first but with a little convincing he eventually gave in.

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We finally reached the last spot on the tour which was Jiktang Falls. We had a big feed of Mae-un-tang first and then set out to shoot the falls. In order to catch the falls in the way that I did, I actually had to stack my crappy variable ND filter onto my polarizer. It seems to work well to get the effect that I was looking for. Soon after we packed up and headed back to Seoul.

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This was a great trip and I am glad that I was asked to come along. I strongly feel that more tours like this are what is needed to open Korea up to travellers. While Cheorwon may not be on the top destination list of most travellers, it is still worth a look especially the Nodongdangsa (once they finish the restoration). Rather than trying to show how hip and cool Korea is, let show the beauty that is already there and utilize the people that have a passion for information about it. I hope in the future they will have a few more tours like this.

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Read Day 1′s Adventures

One of my favorite things to do in Busan is to ride a small boat...

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One of my favorite things to do in Busan is to ride a small boat at Taejongdae (태종대). The ride doesn’t take more than an hour, but it’s so much fun on a clear day. We went at the end of September and saw dolphins last time.

I recommend exiting Nampo-dong Station (남포역), exit 6. Then, take local city bus #8, #30, #88, or #101, and get off at Taejongdae Terminal. This is approximately a 30 minute ride.

Keep your eyes open for any signs stating “Taejongdae Gonpo Cruise Boat.”

At the park, eat grilled eel or buttered clams that can be cooked outside, overlooking the beach.

Afterward, buses #88 and #101 are a 50 minute ride to Busan Station (부산역).


About the girl

Hi, I'm Stacy. I am from Portland, Oregon, USA, and am currently living and teaching ESL in Cheonan, South Korea. Busy getting into lots of adventures, challenging myself, and loving people. Something more than an ethereal will-o-wisp.

Thank you so much for visiting and reading.

Tumblr, Twitter, Instagram, LastfmFlickr, and FacebookAsk me anything

 


KORAIL Unionists Strike Against Rail Privatization

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KORAIL unionists have begun a strike today, December 9th, against rail privatization. The President of the Korean Railway Workers Union (KRWU) held a press conference on December 3rd demanding “1) the Korail Board of Directors meeting to decide on the establishment of a new Suseo KTX operating company be stopped, 2) the government’s unilateral pursuit of rail fragmentation and privatization be stopped, and 3) a framework for national assembly debate and social dialogue on a policy for rail reform aimed at the advancement of public rail be established.” Privatizing KORAIL could mean mass layoffs and fare increases.

For more information about the strike, click here, and to download a PDF of the file, click here.

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ISC media team members Ben and Kellyn stop for a photograph with a demonstrator outside the KORAIL station in Wonju, Gangwon province.

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The man’s sign, reading, “The people are angry about the plans for privatization starting from Milsil”



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L2W - NK #2 Sacked, Kimchi Recognition, CNN Top Ten

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1. National
1) No.2 man in North Korea got sacked
Being the son-in-law of North Korea’s founder Kim Il-sung, brother-in-law of Kim Jong-il, and uncle-in-law of Kim Jong-un, Jang Sung-taik has been known as No.2 man after Kim Jong-un. It seems Jang’s career has ended, however, as he has been stripped of all of his posts and arrested last week, while his two henchmen were publicly executed on charges of damaging the Workers Party. Jang’s another right-hand man is seeking an asylum in South Korean embassy in China. It is reported that Jang’s cronies have put their hands in Kim Jong-un’s slush fund overseas. Jang’s ouster is viewed as Kim Jong-un’s complete consolidation of power in North Korea, or the beginning of Nicolae Ceausescu type process in North Korea.. 
Money may not be the real reason that got Kim Jong-un ticked off. Maybe it was Jang’s fear of losing Kim Jong-un’s confidence as No.2 status to his competitor, and his relentless effort to thwart the entry of Kim Jong-un’s best friend, Dennis Rodman? 

2) Kimchi got recognized by UNESCO
Kimchi, the spicy vegetable dish from Korea, and kimjang, the culture of making and sharing kimchi, have become UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity on Dec 7.  Korea’s Cultural heritage Administration said UNESCO recognized kimjang represents Korea’s culture of sharing and networking ahead of winter and gives Koreans a sense of identity and belongingness through bonding and solidarity.  Kimjang takes place between Nov and Dec, and has been a way of preparing and storing nutritious vegetables for use during long winters.
  
While many foreigners have hard time eating kimchi due to strong smell, ex-Metaldyne employee David Killion was an exception. A great engineer with many patents, Killion fell in love with kimchi from his first visit to Korea in 2000. Korean consumers, however, tend to petition Korean government to block Killion’s entry to Korea as local kimchi price went up 40% each time Killion visited Hyundai R&D center.

2. Economy
1) CNN lists top 10 things Korea is known for
CNN listed 10 things that Korea “pulls off more spectacularly than anywhere else.” Here is the list.  1. Wired culture with 82.7% internet penetration. 2. Whipping out the plastic with 129.7 transactions per person in 2012.  3. Workaholics with 44.6 hours per week. 4. Business boozing 5.Innovative cosmetics 6.Female golfers 7.Starcraft. 8. Flight attendants 9.Blind dates 10.Plastic surgery.  Please click http://edition.cnn.com/2013/11/27/travel/10-things-south-korea-does-best... as it would help you learn the reality in Korea.
 
On the plastic surgery aspect, you must respect Korean plastic surgeons who are better skilled than God. They can turn a Whoopi Goldberg into a Whitney Houston only after a few hours of knife works, just like what they did to 2012 Miss Korea Kim Yumi.

2) Good news with Korean export
President Park Geun-hye attended 50th anniversary of Trade Day event where three good news were announced. Korea became the largest exporter to China with $150 billion, beating out Japan for the first time. Korea reached $1 trillion in trade volume for 3 years in a row. Korea expects to see its largest trade surplus ever with $47 billion, by the end of the year. The Trade Day was started in 1964 by Park’s own father to celebrate the country reaching annual exports of $100 million for the first time. While Korea was the near bottom 90th exporter with products like plywood, wigs and iron ore in 1964, it is 7th exporter this year with semi conductors, mobile phones and cars for $562 billion export. 
 
Philippine was a dream country for Koreans in 1964 as Korea’s personal income was only about one tenth of Philippine at that time. Long line for  work visa application in front of Korean Embassy in Manila these days, however. Why the other way around in 50 years?  Philippine had a dictator Fernando Marcos whose interest was in the wealth of his family while Korea also had another dictator Park Jung-hee whose interest was in the wealth of his nation.  

3. Auto Industry
1) A Genesis for New Genesis
Hyundai launched New Genesis sedan with a plant to sell 62,000 units, a 35% up from the record 46,000 units sold in 2011. As Hyundai has seen its luxury sedan market severely eroded by imports, mostly by German models, Hyundai’s focus on New Genesis development was to benchmark German competitors. (Hyundai and its sister Kia’ sold only 10,264 Genesis and 4,497 K9(K900 in the U.S.) in the first 10 months this year while the combined sales of the BMW 5 Series, Audi At and Mercedes-Benz E-Class stood at 30,909 units.) The New Genesis will sell for between 46.6 million Won and 69.6 million won, and is thought be a mega hit so far with 8,000 units sold in a week. 
While New Genesis got much better than its predecessor in general, it is not so in fuel efficiency because of added weights with more functions and features. It got 135kg weightier than its old version, and even 200kg more with 4WD option. What should be on the desk of Hyundai engineers working for the next Genesis to launch in 2019? Jane Fonda’s Workout Book.

2) GM Korea under fear with no Chevy in Europe
GM Korea is getting a direct hit from GM’s recent decision to halt sales of Chevrolets in Europe from 2016. GM Korea manufactured 780K vehicles last year, and shipped 186K Chevy models to Europe, meaning 24 percent sales drop for GM Korea that will entail large layoffs.  GM Korea runs thee plants in Korea, and most of the Chevy models to Europe are produced at Gunsan Plant located 300km south of Seoul. Gunsan has a capacity to produce 260K units a year. 
GM is known as the company run by bean counters, and its ‘no Chevy in Europe’ decision was made because the bean counters were not happy.  What should be in the hands of GM Korea union workers and management? My Years with General Motors by Alfred Sloan. “The business of business is business.”

Regards,
H.S.

The Law of the Land

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Sometimes kids lock horns with each other in  surprisingly intense ways. The epic battle over the empty seat.  The squabble over who turned in their work first.  The showdown over who gets to write the answer to question number 7 on the board.  In America, the teacher is usually the go-to mediator for such disputes.  As the adult in the room, he or she gets to make any and all final rulings with regard to classroom policy and procedures.  

However, here in Korea, there is a god higher than that of the teacher’s authority, a totem so sacred that to defy its judgment would be like spitting on the taeggukgi, the symbol of what it means to be South Korean.  This arbiter is exacting, lightning quick, and utterly beyond reproach.  It does not play favorites, nor is it swayed by tears or pleas or even good behavior.  Its word is law, and every student unquestioningly accepts this as truth.  

For a teacher, this is awesome. I can settle any dispute without looking like the bad guy with three short words  

Jimmy and Billy about to come to blows over a seat?  All I do is look up from the blackboard and say:  ”Kai, Bye, Bo”.  These three nearly omnipotent syllables are short for “가위 바위 보” (pronounced: kah-wee, bah-wee, bo).  Translation: Scissors, Paper, Rock.  

More effective than any other method of conflict resolution I’ve ever seen, Rock Paper Scissors is the supreme law of the Korean classroom, mostly because the kids accept it as such.  Occasionally, the loser will press you for a 2 out of 3, but even he knows he’s just kidding himself because the Almighty has already decided his fate.

가위 바위 보 settles everything from who gets to read first to who gets the last bite of the snack you’re sharing.  It is absolute, and it is also the foundation for about a dozen other children’s games, most of them involving the winner getting to hit the loser.  It is the ultimate decision-maker, and these kids can “Kai Bye Bo” at lightning speed, in multiple elimination rounds, to determine what order they line up in or who their team captain is.  It’s mind-boggling to watch.  

They haven’t added the Lizard-Spock iteration yet, but I’m waiting for it.  


Filed under: Uncategorized Tagged: Busan, Korea, Rock Paper Scissor, Teaching

Dear Korea #105 - Getting Harder to Breathe

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Ughhh, this smog. I need to stop going outside. I guess this would be a good excuse as any to sit at home and enjoy a Pixar movie marathon with a hot bowl of soup and some tea. That all sounds good right now.

For the curious readers, the smog we’ve been facing in Korea is apparently blown in from China. It crosses the West Sea, where it gets diluted (thank goodness), but a good percentage of it still reaches us. The smog we receive is supposed to be worse in winter, as it carries more ultrafine particles than what we receive during yellow dust season. It’s also said to be toxic due to all the chemicals and heavy metals in the air.

This is a major bummer for those with asthma and respiratory problems. I’ve already seen a few of my friends catching all sorts of things like bronchitis. As for me, the worst I seem to have gotten is a sore throat, a sniffly nose, and a bit of a headache. I can only imagine how bad it is for those living in China. If anyone is reading from that side of the world, I’m sorry you’re having to breathe in that stuff.

I think it’s time for me to finally invest in one of those masks, even if they do make me look silly.


Jen Lee's Dear Korea

This is Jen Lee. She likes to draw.
She also likes green tea.

Got any questions, comments, or maybe even some delicious cookies you want to send through the internet? Feel free to contact us at dearkoreacomic at gmail dot com.

You can also leave comments on the comic’s Facebook Page!

 

On Tolerance

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On Tolerance

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It was one of the most physically taxing things I’ve done in a while – a mountain hike up one of Daegu’s beautiful peaks, Mt. Apsan. It was also something that I only could have done with the help, encouragement and understanding of my fellow hikers, most of whom barely knew any English.

On a cool, foggy Sunday sometime last month, I met up with a good friend who introduced me to a local activities group. This group, consisting of Koreans from around Daegu, were about 4 men and one woman, all in their 30s to 40s. I arrived to the hiking site in typical ill-equipped waygook fashion, donning a leather jacket, combat boots with no grip at the bottom, and a heavy DSLR in a backpack. My counterparts were all outfitted with impressive hiking gear – special boots, bright brand-name hiking jackets, and outdoorsman backpacks. Nevertheless, I stayed optimistic as I stared upwards, trying to remember the last time I exercised.

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Well, about halfway up, I was about to quit. Winded, lightheaded, and feeling like I was going to toss my breakfast, I sipped some water at the temple spring and gestured to the group to go on without me. I insisted that I could wait at the temple until they all hiked up and came back down. I felt embarrassed at how much I was slowing the group down; the well-prepared, experienced hikers who were probably used to climbing up a lot faster. Instead, they surprised me. My friend translated what they were saying, and they all said the same thing: “We came together, and we will get to the top together.” They could have all agreed that maybe the hike is too difficult, maybe it would be easier for me to stay behind. But they waited. Gathering every bit of willpower I had, I pushed aside my reluctance, and decided to keep going.

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There was one man in the group who jokingly complained every few steps, and I revealed that I knew a little Korean, laughing at his antics. It also happened to be the running joke that I needed to sit down at certain intervals on our way up, so every time he whipped out a foam pad for me to sit on! Haha~ One other member of the group even took my backpack from me, offering to take it up. They asked me if I needed water, and looked back to see if I was okay. At one point, to make the climb a little more fun, we played 가위 바위 보 (the equivalent of rock paper scissors) and the winners got to climb a few steps higher. I ended up winning this little game, and simply stated “Lucky!” to my fellow hikers from the spot at the top, causing them all to laugh.  I was so grateful for their high spirits and kindness that every so often, looking towards the steps ahead, I found my mentality change to, “I think I can make it.”

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And I made it to the top.

I took some of these shots at the observation deck, looking down at the city that I now call home. The contrast between the natural beauty of the mountain and the gridded city below was breathtaking. Although it was a little foggy, the view was mysterious, incredible, and something that I didn’t think I would be able to see. We all ate some kimchi and rice, had a cup of beer, and relished the moment in the crisp, mountain air. I couldn’t have shared that time with a better group of people.

Now, I’ll try to talk a bit about something that has been on my mind for a long time. Some my good friends and other expats that I know have been very vocal about their discontents with certain aspects of life in Korea, whether sharing it online or over a beer. At times their issues focus around a co-teacher who “doesn’t do their job,” a confusing chain of command, or being all too often lost (subsequently confused, angered) in translation. It is the jarring transition from Western culture to Eastern culture that many are not adequately prepared for.

But is it their fault?

I came to Korea having taken courses in Korean history and culture and Korean language. Prior to that, I was very interested in Korean culture, watching Korean dramas and listening to Korean pop music. It was an interest that I shared with many of my friends in America, and part of the reason why I chose to come to Korea. However, I can’t say that I share this same degree of cultural interest with everyone here.

Some hate the food. Some don’t understand the whole idea that “you have sick days but you’re not expected to take any.” Some get “shushed” on the bus for talking too loudly, outraged that the disgruntled old man chastised them in Korean. I hear things like, “She doesn’t even know the difference between the p and the f sound,” and, “I’m glad I’m not Korean.” They are misunderstandings and mishaps resulting from a clash between two societies that are proud of their own culture.

It’s disheartening that these things happen, especially since we all have to take a lengthy online course teaching us the ins and outs of teaching and living in Korea, yet it does a terrible job of preparing people for an attitude adjustment. That’s exactly what it is, and exactly what no one wants to hear. Many are unabashedly Western in the far East, and when the water doesn’t part for them, they lash out. Frustrated, they vent online about a scatterbrained co-teacher and a rude old woman on the subway who nearly ran them over in her rush.

The absurdity of it is that you should let the old woman push her way through.

A cornerstone of Korean culture is deference, and it can be found in the minutia of day-to-day communication. When meeting someone new, it is common for Koreans to assume the most formal way of speaking to each other only until they have a verbal confirmation that they can talk informally to the other party. Yes, they actually ask each other, “Can I talk to you informally?” In addition, the relationship between the speaker and listener is almost always anchored by age difference. A 50-year-old man will talk “lower” to a 40-year-old man. This is the tradition, and although it is getting more relaxed as the years pass, it exists.

So do the Confucian values that Korean society was founded on; an entire system of deference, ranking one’s obligations to maintain filial piety, marital fidelity, and respect for governing bodies. Remnants of this sociopolitical system are still in tact, and keep the country in its pristine, machine-like order. They are trusted values that have granted Korea its position as a technological and economic force of the East, and the reason why these seemingly “dated” values aren’t completely gone in a modern world.

Thus, when I came here, although I took a course in Korean culture, there was no real way of knowing what I was in for. But I watched carefully. I took in what everyone was doing. I bowed deeply, learned some of the greetings, and smiled no matter how tired I was. I greeted everyone in the morning, sat next to them at lunch and said, ” 맛있게 드세요!” (Please eat deliciously!). I prepared and taught entire lessons (I still do) and tried to be as hardworking and accommodating to my co-teachers as possible. And they noticed. One English teacher in my school who I didn’t know came up to me one day and thanked me for being “such a bright person.” I didn’t think I would be this way either, but in the smile of the gatekeeper 할아버지 as I greet him, I find so much warmth. In all the energetic “Hi!”s from my students, I get a little more strength to get through the day.

If you can give value to all of the little moments that you have here, the difficulties will be few and far apart.

It’s easy to get frustrated in a place where you don’t speak the language, and where the culture is so fundamentally different. But if you can bow and apologize to the woman in a rush, offer your seat to the tough 아줌마 in the subway, or pick up the slack of a co-teacher, the negativity will dissipate, and you’ll find yourself seeing the big picture.

I think back to that hike, and how much I wanted to give up. I was halfway up, and I insisted that I couldn’t make it to the top. Every part of my being was screaming that “I can’t do it.” But everyone encouraged me. People that I had only met earlier that day patiently stuck by me, guided me, and made me smile through the challenge.

It is why I hope that some of my friends can see how truly wonderful life is here, and how surprisingly far a little tolerance can take you.

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hmmm...

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I've been wanting to blog for some quite some time, but I just can't do it... I feel like I'm being watched... you know?? (I'm talking to you Stalker out there!)

Anyway, we are back in Japan, actually, we've been in Japan for a week now, I miss Korea A LOT, and more than the land itself, I miss all the friends we made there :(

I guess I'll blog more about the last couple of weeks later since its almost 3am and I don't think my roommates will like my typing lol.

Meanwhile...here are some pics!




Franz Ferdinand in Seoul













-Gisela V.

The Julie/Julia/Gisela Project
Food & Culture
TheJulieJuliaGiselaProject.blogspot.com

 
 
The Julie Julia Gisela Project

 

 

Ssamziegil (쌈지길) is the place to shop in Insadong. There are...

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Ssamziegil (쌈지길) is the place to shop in Insadong. There are multiple floors connected by a spiral-like stairway. There are plenty of little shops and cafes to buy Korean trinkets.

Location: Anguk Station, Seoul Subway line 3, Exit #6 (towards Jongno Police Station). Enter the Insadong one-way street of Crown Bakery & GS25, and go straight 100 meters. Ssamziegil will be on your left.


About the girl

Hi, I'm Stacy. I am from Portland, Oregon, USA, and am currently living and teaching ESL in Cheonan, South Korea. Busy getting into lots of adventures, challenging myself, and loving people. Something more than an ethereal will-o-wisp.

Thank you so much for visiting and reading.

Tumblr, Twitter, Instagram, LastfmFlickr, and FacebookAsk me anything

 


The Story Of…Samneung Valley in Gyeongju

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 The Large Seated Statue of Mireuk-bul up Samneung Valley.

Hello Again Everyone!!

Sometimes, a temple adventure isn’t always amazing, or adventurous for that matter. However, Samneung Valley on Mt. Namsan in Gyeongju was both amazing and adventurous; but it was also something else: embarrassing.

I had been enjoying all the sites along the Samneung-gol Valley like the Headless Mireuk-bul Statue, the Gwanseeum-bosal Image on a Rock Face, the Two Lined-Carved Buddha Triads, the Seated Stone Buddha, and Sangseonam Hermitage, where I was able to take a bit of a rest and enjoy the amazing views that Mt. Namsan offers.

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The Gwanseeum-bosal Image on a Rock Face mid-way up Samneung Valley.

The final destination was the Large Seated Statue of Mireuk-bul. I followed the trail that leads to the left of Sangseonam Hermitage, attempting to find perhaps the most important statue on Mt. Namsan. Somewhere along the way, I must have got lost because I ended up at Sangsaam Rock, which I knew was well past the Large Seated Statue of Mireuk-bul; so either I had missed it completely, or it was well hidden.

Back-tracking down the mountain, I was finally able to spot the massive statue. However, everywhere I turned, it was roped off. I was finally able to figure out that the government ropes off the area in winter to protect hikers from the icy stairs. It must have been at this point that the Canadian in me kicked in, because I wasn’t going to let a little ice prevent me from hiking all that way and not see the Large Seated Statue of Mireuk-bul.

So hopping the roped off area, and with the winter wind seeming a bit cooler, I finally saw the amazing Large Seated Statue of Mireuk-bul. It was everything I had imagined it to be and more.

Finally back at home, after an amazing tour of Mt. Namsan, and Samneung-gol Valley in particular, I realized I had torn the crotch of my pants. Not only had I torn my pants, but I had completely blown a hole in them. Seeing this, I finally realized why it felt that much colder after hopping the roped off fence. But what is most embarrassing is that I’m sure there must have been at least a dozen Korean hikers watching me with amazement with a huge hole in the crotch of my pants! Sometimes, I’m just so embarrassing…

For more on Samneung Valley on Mt. Namsan Pt. 1

For more on Samneung Valley on Mt. Namsan Pt. 2

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 Said pants…

Is the Korean Wave a Repeat Phenomenon? A Look at “Goryeo Form”

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Is the Korean Wave a Repeat Phenomenon? A Look at “Goryeo Form” During

Soju

Introduction

Some 700 years ago, there was dispersion of Korean culture similar to the modern day Korean wave, or Hallyu (韓流, 한류), in China during the Mongol Yuan Dynasty (元, 원, Weon, 1271-1368). The Mongol Invasions of Korea (麗蒙戰爭, 여몽전쟁, 1231-1270) and then subsequent 80 year subjugation were a sad, period in Korean history, but it was also a period of intercultural exchange between the Yuan and Goryeo (高麗, 고려, 918-1392). Many elements of Mongol culture were imported into Goryeo. These are referred to as ”Mongol Style,” or Monggo Pung (蒙古風, 몽고풍), some of which still are seen today in Korea. Examples include:

  • Byeonbal (辨髮, 변발) – Queue hairstyle, in which the hair in front of the back is shaved and behind it is worn long and tied on in pony tail. (These hairstyles were banned after the collapse of the Yuan dynasty).
  • Jokduri (족두리) – The coronet worn by Korean women in traditional dress were special occasions, including weddings.
  • Yeonjigonji (臙脂–, 연지곤지) – The red dot make up that Korean women put on in traditional Korean wedding ceremonies.
  • Mongol loan words. Examples include postfixes -chi (치) and -achi (아치) as seen in such words as Jangsachi (장사치), meaning “peddler,” and Yang’achi (양아치), meaning “bully,” and the word Mal (말) meaning “horse.”
  • Food such as oxtail soup, or Seollongtang (설렁탕), and pork blood sausage, or Sundae (순대). 
  • The technique of alcohol distillation was brought from Arab lands through the Yuan dynasty into Korea, and along with it Soju (燒酒 ,소주) (pictured above). This is probably the most well known example of Mongo Pung. (It should be noted that traditional Soju is at least twice as strong as its watered down modern version).

This cultural exchange was not one way. Goryeo culture was also exported and was especially popular during the latter half of the Yuan Dynasty. These were referred to as “Goryeo Form,” or Goryeoyang (高麗樣, 고려양) or Goryeoyangja (高麗樣子, 고려양자).

Goryeo Women, the Enablers of Goryeo Form

Empress Ki

Empress Ki (奇皇后, 기황후, 1315-1369), the last Empress of Yuan Dyansty. She was the consort of Emperor Shundi (順帝, 순제, 1320-1370, r. 1330-1370).

As a tribute state, the Kings of Goryeo had to take Mongol names and marry Mongol princess. Goryeo also had to send hundreds of women as tribute, known as Gongnyeo (貢女, 공녀), to China when requested. Gongnyeo were typically maids and servants serving at the Goryeo royal palace, although later the Goryeo government issued a mandate requiring permission for women to marry so that the government could determine whether to send them as tribute. The stated purpose of taking women as tribute was to encourage close “elder and younger brother diplomatic relationship,”or Buma (駙馬, 부마), between the Yuan Dynasty and Goryeo.

Regardless of the stated purpose, it became popular among Mongol royalty and nobility to marryGongnyeo from Goryeo. One of the most famous of these was Empress Ki (奇皇后, 기황후, 1315-1369), who was the consort of Toghon Temür, or Emperor Shundi (順帝, 순제, 1320-1370, r. 1330-1370), the last emperor of the Yuan Dynasty. The popularity of marrying Goryeo women, along with popularity of all things Goryeo, is recorded in Another Country’s History of the Gengshen Year (庚申外史, 경신외사, Gyeongshin Oesa), which describes the history of the Yuan dynasty, by Quan Heng (權衡, 권형, Kwon Hyeong, ?-?), a Chinese historian of the Early Ming Dynasty:

庚申外史 경신외사

Another Country’s History of the Gengshen (庚申, 경신, Gyeongshin) Year

京師達官貴人, 必得高麗女然後為名家…
경사달관귀인, 필득고려녀연후위명가…

In the capital, those of high bureaucratic posts and noblemen must obtain a Goryeo woman to become a reputable household. Goryeo women are gentle and beautiful, serve others well…

以故四方衣服鞋帽器物, 皆依高麗樣子. 此關系一時風氣, 豈偶然哉?
이고사방의복혜모기물, 개의고려양자. 차관계일시풍기, 기우연재?

For this reason, in four directions, clothes, shoes, and plates all are based on the Goryeo form (高麗樣子, 고려양자). This relationship at one time was the trend. How was this accidental?

The Popularity of Goryeo Clothing

Chinese Clothing

These Goryeo women also brought along with them Goryeo culture, including clothing. Goryeo’s women clothing, in particular, influenced the fashion of Chinese women in the late Yuan Dynasty period, and even during the Ming dynasty period as indicated in the drawing above and from contemporary sources. Zhang Yu (張昱, 장욱, Jang Uk, 1330-?), a Yuan Dynasty period Chinese literati bureaucrat and poet, describes the popularity of Goryeo clothing at the Yuan Dynasty palace in the following poem:

宮中詞 궁중사

Words About the Court

宮衣新尙高麗樣 궁의신상고려양
方領過腰半臂裁 방령과요반비재
連夜內家爭借看 연야내가쟁차간
爲曾著過御前來 위증착과어전래

Clothes of the palace newly revere the Goryeo Form.
The jacket garment pass the waist, but half the arm is exposed.
On consecutive nights, the inner household members quarrel and take peeks.
Earlier, they dressed and came before the Emperor.

Palace • clothing • newly • to revere • High • splendor • style
Upper garment • upper garment • to pass • waist  • half  • arm • to be exposed
Consecutive • nights • inner • household • to quarrel • to borrow • to look
To do • earlier • to dress • to pass by • royalty • before • to come

  • 方領(방령) – Refers to the upper garment of Korean clothing, covering the chest and arms. Also known as Jeogori (저고리).
  • 著 is pronounced 저, if interpreted as “to appear” (나타나다), and read as 착, if interpreted as “to wear” (옷을 입다).

The Popularity of Goryeo Food

Ssam Jongryu

Along with clothing, Goryeo food was also popular in China during the Yuan Dyansty. Goryeo food that was exported to the Yuan Dynasty include rice cakes, or Ddeok (떡), Goryeo-style dumplings (高麗饅頭, 고려만두), and vegetable wrap (쌈 or 生菜, 생채). Some of these foods are still present in present day Mongolian cuisine. Yang Yunfu (楊允孚, 양윤부, Yang Yunbu, 1354-?), another Yuan Dynasty period Chinese poet, describes having Goryeo vegetable wrap in Dadu (大都, 대도, Daedo), the capital at the time:

灤京雜詠 난경잡영

Various Recitations on Luanjing (灤京, 난경, Nan’gyeong)

海紅不似花紅好 해홍불사화홍호
杏子何如巴欖良 행자하여파람량
更說高麗生菜美 갱설고려생채미
總輸山後麻菰香 총륜산후마고향

The annual seabite are not like the goodness of the pearleaf crabapple.
How are the gingko trees to the splendidness of the almonds?
I say again Goryeo’s fresh vegetable wrap are beautiful.
All carry the scent of the annual wild rice beyond the mountains.

Seas • red • not • to be like • flower • red • good
Gingko • grammar particle • how • how • almond • almond • splendid
Again • to say • high • splendid • raw • vegetable • beautiful
All • to carry • mountain • after • wild rice • wild rice • scent

海紅, 花紅, 巴攬仁, 皆果名.
해홍, 화홍, 파람인, 개과명.

Suaeda maritima, Malus asiatica, and Prunus amygdalus are all names of fruits.

高麗人以生菜裹飯食之. 尖山產麻菰.
고려인이생채리반식지. 첨산산마고.

The people of Goryeo eat with rice inside raw vegetable. Mount Jian (尖山, 첨산, Cheomsan) produces the Zizania aquatica.

  • http://s1.wp.com/wp-content/themes/pub/blogum/images/dash.png); border: 0px; margin: 0px; font-size: 12px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 14px; vertical-align: baseline; line-height: 1.5; background-position: 0px 9px; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat;">灤京(난경) – Luanjing was another name for the capital during the Mongol Yuan Dynasty.

Sources (All in Korean):

Nota Bene: Lest stumblers onto this blog post think this blogger is some crazy Korean Originist (韓國起源主義者), this is well-documented from both Korean and Chinese articles (from what I can tell from the pictures).  Furthermore, I have discredited it plenty of times in other blog posts.


kuiwon.wordpress.com

 

Copyright Notice

 

Lotte Department Store Sky Garden, Nampo-dong, Busan

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This is the pre-procrastination post. Any post after this should be met with a hard internet slap around the digital face and being told to get back to work....Winter camps are coming.
 

I bet you're thinking, "Why the hell are you doing a post about the top of a department store for?", and I guess your right, I live in East Asia, I should be covering temples and weird food and shitty pop and Hello Kitty cafes right? Well I saw a temple once and the rest ca.....actually fuck you it's my blog.

I've been up to the top of the NampoDong's Lotte Department store many times, it's offers sweet views of the Busan tower, the docks and the path ways leading on to Yeongdo-gu, an island district home to another favourite Busan spot, Taejongdae. As all good attractions in Korea do, it has a coffee shop (never drink Angel-In-Us coffee) and lock-loves, rusted from years of sea wind and elemental exposure.

Plus it's free. Poor and got 30 minutes to kill in this shopping district? Go to here.

The last time I took said advice I found the sky garden was now home to a petting zoo, screaming children, tired parents, wary animals all immediately dropped their interests to check out the scruffy mega-bearded super-foreigner taking pictures of everything...that is until the pig escaped...
 


Take yr young'uns, just be ware of the extra creepy art that seems omnipresent, three years ago I found black-face-Winnie-The-Pooh, multicoloured gargoyles guarding the toilets and acid-face stretch-cats to sit on. This time, just a wooden dog peeing (seen above) and puke-green giraffes. An artist wanting the sack perhaps?
 

Anyway, when you live in such a hussle-bussle environment it's nice to get above it once in a while. Coming from middle England I'm not use to buildings having more than two floors...this helps me stretch my neck the other way for a little bit.
 
 

How to get there:

Get to Nampo-dong Station (Line 1/Orange Line - Only three stops from the Busan KTX Station)


Head to Exit 7, underground entrance.
Avoid shopping for crap you don't need.
Elevate to the 12th floor.

Soundtrack:

Peter Wyeth - Poppy's Afternoon

The soundtrack to the joyous laughter of youth.

Duipuri- A Short Story

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 by Kellyn Gross

“Geonbae!”

“Bottoms up.”

He raises his shot glass in the air, striking hers as she does the same. Soju spills, dripping onto a stained blue checkered tablecloth. A sudden laugh escapes her pursed lips. She downcasts her eyes and smooths her pants. Her pale make-up no longer conceals her flushed face.

“To us!” The young man brings the glass to his lips, and tilts his head back as he gulps the clear liquor. His plastic stool wobbles, and he clasps the round table to brace himself. Unsuccessful, he falls against the orange tent wall. A broad smile forms on his round face, and he gingerly places his glass down.

“To us.” A loose bun at the nape of her neck unfurls. She pats it with her left hand. The young woman sips down her drink and smirks.

It’s four o’clock in the morning and cold. Yellow traffic lights flash through the tent’s clear, plastic windows, and smells of frying oil, cigarettes and booze linger. The man sets two empty soju bottles upright and pushes them across the table to join another three. They clang and fall over again. The woman picks up each of the four charred skewer sticks and tosses them into the small garbage tin by their feet. They are the only diners in this street food stall.

“More side dishes and another soju. Oh, and four more fish cake skewers, please.” He waves at the old woman sitting behind steaming vats of broth and skewered meats. The squat proprietor slides her blanket off her lap, slowly stands up and limps past the counter to a fridge lined with bottles of soda, soju, rice wine and beer. He looks at her stooped frame and dashes to her with the empty dishes. Their eyes scarcely meet.

“Thank you.” The man bows earnestly as he takes the bottle from her.

“Yes.” She returns to her station to refill the dishes, occasionally stopping to listen to the radio drama droning on behind her.

“I’m glad you asked me to join you.” She sighs and hugs her coat lapels close to her chest as he sits back down. “You saved me from drinking alone.”

“I’m glad you said yes. So, do you think we have drank enough to forget our problems?” He twists the soju cap off with a quick motion and tips the bottle toward her. She holds her glass with two hands and accepts his pour.

“No, but maybe after this one.” They both laugh, and she pours a drink for him as well. She looks at his scuffed fingernails and the dirt smudges on his hands. “You said that your family is from Taegu, right?” Her hands are smooth and clean.

“Yes, Taegu. But I moved to Seoul about six years ago. My mom was working here first.”

“Tell me more about Peace Market. Do you like your job?” His wide-set eyes steady on her in silence before he looks down. He doesn’t wait for a toast and drinks the entire shot.

“No, I don’t.” The old woman returns, placing dishes of dried squid, chili pepper sauce, peanuts and a plate of four fish cake skewers on the table. He pours himself another shot and knocks it back.

“I usually have to work 14 hours a day, and I even work on Sundays. Work starts in a few hours, really. But we aren’t paid overtime. The seamstresses operate the sewing machines until late at night. They all have health problems. They’re only middle-school girls, working 15 hours a day.”

“Middle-school girls?”

“Yes. I don’t know how they can stand it. There is no ventilation, and the fumes are horrible. They can’t afford to eat more than a bowl of ramen a day. Hell, neither can I most days.” She wrings her hands, and her eyes search his face for answers to these troubling stories.

“You look cold. Here. Take my jacket.”

“No, I’m okay. I’m just shocked by this information.”

“Please. I insist.” He removes his brown jacket and drapes it over her shoulders.

“Thank you.”

“It’s my pleasure.”

“So, do you operate the sewing machines, too?”

“No, I’m a fabric cutter. I get extra money for the job, but it’s very little.” He stuffs a skewer in his mouth and rakes off the fish cake with his front teeth. “The shop I work in is no bigger than this pojangmacha.” He gestures toward the tent walls with the skewer, then sees she isn’t eating. “Please, help yourself.” She takes the skewer from his outstretched hands and spins it between her fingers before eating the fish cake.

“Thanks. Have you tried telling labor inspectors?”

“I’ve tried, but they just say they’ll inspect shops and never do. I say to them, we’re not machines! But they don’t listen. Why should they? Even our president ignores labor regulations. Which reminds me, I bought a copy of the Korean Labor Standards Act.”

“What’s that?” She takes another skewer and nibbles the sides of the fish cake.

“The act is supposed to protect workers and their rights. I’m teaching myself hanja to read the document, but it’s difficult and slow. I wish I had a university friend to help me. Do you know how to read hanja?” She is not only studying at Sogang University, but she studied hanja throughout primary and secondary school.

“N-no I don’t. I-I-I’m really sorry I can’t help you.” Her lips barely move, and she is almost inaudible.

“That’s okay. It’s all in the act, though. Workers are guaranteed proper wages and eight-hour workdays by law, as well as Sundays off and regular health exams. But I’m learning that the law is nothing but a piece of paper.”

“It’s not right.”

“No, no it’s not. And it keeps me up at night. What about you? You still haven’t said why you were drinking alone on a Saturday night.”

“Nevermind. It’s nothing, really.”

“No, I want to know. I’m listening.” He peers at her as she fiddles with her skewer.

“First, let’s toast.” She quickly chews the last bite of fish cake.

“Oh, of course. Cheers! To workers!” The fabric cutter pours himself another shot, and together with the university student, they raise their shot glasses in the air. Soju spills again onto the stained tablecloth before the glasses reach their mouths.

“So? What’s worrying you?” She hesitates to respond and then peeks at her silver wristwatch.

“You know, it’s almost 5am. I should go home. Can we talk about this another time?”

“Uhh. Of course. Do you live nearby? I can walk you home.”

“I’d rather walk alone if that’s okay. Not that I haven’t appreciated my time with you, but it’s more proper this way.”

“Okay, I understand. So, I guess this is good night? Or good morning?” He chuckles.

“Either way, I guess it is. First, I should give you some m—”

“No, I’ll pay.”

“But I drank and ate just as much as y—”

“No, I’m your older brother. I was born in 1948, remember?”

“I remember, I just thought—”

“Really, it’s okay.”

“Well, thank you so much for your kindness.”

“You’re welcome.” He pulls out a handful of coins from his front pocket and approaches the old woman at the counter. Their eyes still scarcely meet.

“Here you are. We ate well. Thank you.”

“Yes. Come again.” The young man and young woman exit through the front door and face each other on the sidewalk.

“Let’s meet again.” He shoves his hands in his pockets.

“Okay. When and where?”

“How about here next Saturday? But let’s meet in the afternoon instead.”

“Yes, good thinking.” She teeters back and forth on her heels to stay warm in the chilly November air.

“Well, nice to meet you, and I’ll see you in a week. Good-bye.”

“Good-bye.” She smiles and bows. He smiles in return and hurries down the sidewalk toward the orange glow of sunrise at the street’s horizon.

Good-bye. Wait.

“Hey! I don’t know your name! I still have your jacket!” She starts to run after him.

“Aaeesh! Yelling won’t help. He’s gone. Besides, you’ll see him again.” The old lady clucks her tongue, arms akimbo. She limps past the plastic doorway to sit once again behind vats of broth and fried food.

The young woman stops. She places her hand above her heart, tracing the edges of a name tag with her finger. She looks down and reads the white letters set against the black background.

“Jeon Tae Il.” Smoke from the tented restaurant wafts in the air. The old woman turns up the volume on her radio. The red sun rises over the cemetery, and the sweltering midday heat is my hardship. Now, I leave to the wilderness. Leaving all sorrow behind, now I go.

Park Geun Hye is startled awake. She’s in her arm chair on the second floor of the Blue House.

Am I smelling smoke? Her cellphone rests on a table next to her. She picks it up and speed dials her assistant.

“Tomorrow morning is a national labor rally in memory of Jeon Tae Il, no?

“Yes, Madam President, that’s correct. Unions will be mobilizing tomorrow at City Hall, although the exact date of his memorial is November 13th. Forgive me, but if you were considering trying to visit the Jeon foundation again, I think that given what happened last y–”

“No, I won’t be attempting to visit the foundation. But I did promise last year at his monument to make a country where laborers are happy.”

“I see, Madam President. I’m not sure w–”

“What time are protesters gathering tomorrow?”

“I believe at ten o’clock. Approximately 200 combat police and riot control personnel will be on stand by surrounding the US embassy per protocol. Would you like to speak with Mayor Park Won Soon and suggest a stronger police presence?”

“No, I most assuredly do not. But do arrange a car pick up for me at eight o’clock en route to City Hall.”

“But, Madam President, I don’t think that’s possible. Tomorrow is Sunday, and you have your weekly security meeting with advisor Chun Yung Woo.”

“Well, call him to reschedule for Monday. I also want to contact labor organizers tonight. Can you help me do that? Can you get KTCU members or Ssangyong Motors people on the phone?”

“I can try, but Madam P–”

“Good. I want to speak with any labor representative whom I can. And I need to address the protesters tomorrow.”

“B-b-but Madam President, this is highly unorthodox.”

“I know. But I made a promise to workers. An-an-and I just haven’t done that. It’s time I did.”

“Madam President, I’m sorry, but I don’t understand this. I mean, why?”

“Why? Because I want to be the friend to workers my father wasn’t before—that I wasn’t before. As you know, my memorial business has always been to my father.”

“Yes, Madam President, of c–”

“But my memorial business should include workers like Jeon Tae Il who have made great sacrifices.” She stared at her father’s solemn portrait on the far wall, then gazed out the window.

“It’s taken a single spark, and it can’t be put out.”

This short story is inspired by the protest that our media team attended on November 9th of this year, and by the workers’ rights activist Jeon Tae Il who self-immolated himself on November 13, 1970. He was protesting horrendous working conditions in garment factories under Park Chung Hee’s dictatorship. His struggle lives on under Park Geun Hye’s administration.

 

 



solidarity stories
from  International Strategy Center’s media chapter
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How I Got Scammed in Bangkok, but Came Out Winning

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We have all read stories about getting scammed in foreign countries while on vacation. We’re also given all the precautions to save us from the embarrassment and loss of a scam. Then, we prepare mentally and physically for it. Preparing to spot that ominous, slim, shady character walking towards us with a trench coat on. Some even take karate classes in preparation for it.

Enough horseplay. If we knew how a scam worked, we wouldn’t get scammed.  And the scammers know this so they come at us like an innocent dove.

Have you ever seen the reporter doing a story about pickpockets, and this master pick pocket-er literally tells the reporter what he’s going to steal and then steals it by the end? It’s like that I suppose.

Do Not Trust Strangers 300x190 How I Got Scammed in Bangkok, but Came Out WinningI went to Bangkok for a short week and though I wasn’t paranoid, I was still aware of the many stories of people having stuff taken or being taken while vacationing there. So, I did two things:

First, I left my hotel door unlocked for the first 2 days thinking it was locked. Don’t ask – I just thought it was one of those lock-from-the-inside jobs and it was fine. I would come home, insert the key, and be in. That was until I came home the third day, turned the doorknob and just walked right in.

Doh!

Second, I somehow thought this random, older Thai gentleman was just being genuinely friendly when he walked up to me and struck up a conversation. Next thing I knew I was being whisked off in a tuk-tuk (motorbike taxi carriage) en route to a boat tour.

People told me what was going to happen, and then it happened just like the reporter and the pick-pocket.

The post How I Got Scammed in Bangkok, but Came Out Winning appeared first on The Red Dragon Diaries.


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