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Days of Chuseok

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The Chuseok holiday is ending slowly here. All that is left is the rest of the weekend, but that’s not really Chuseok. Most businesses will open up tomorrow in the hope of catching those desperate to restock their fridge and fill their belly with something other than Chuseok food.

Of course we suffer in Korea this year because Chuseok, a three day holiday, has fallen on a Thursday, so the three days around it also meld into Saturday and Sunday making it a nice rounded five day break. There will be a very slow and more unenthusiastic than usual start to work all around the country this Monday.

Myself, Herself, and +1 have been on the east coast since Tuesday. The town, as you may already know, is called Jumunjn (주문진) and it’s where Herself was born and grew up. Her parent’s house is a short walk from the beach, and to a certain extent it is within very short distance of some fairly nice countryside. If you’re fortunate enough to have a car then there’s a wealth of scenery and country well worth exploring.

As it’s kind of late at night and +1 seems to be more restless in the evenings (she’s just under 10 months old now) I’m going to share with you some photographs I’ve take over the past few days, rather than writing a long essay. Some are s little blurry as I’m still struggling with having the right amount of paetience to make this DSLR of mine work for me. Still, I hope you enjoy them.

If you’d like to read a little more about my experience celebrating Chuseok in my own home in Suwon, please follow the link.

Also be sure to check out Ben Haynes guest post Get Ready, Get Set…Chuseok

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Copyright all photographs Conor O’Reilly, September 2013. All rights reserved.



Unspeakable Neighbor

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A police car approached two loud, inebriated men just outside our apartment. I was awakened by the police car loudspeaker. I could't get a good shot because I was in my room. Right after the police left, they were noisy again.

A police car approached two loud, inebriated men just outside our apartment. I was awakened by the police car loudspeaker. I could’t get a good shot because I was in my room. Right after the police left, they were noisy again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm supposed to be talking about how my family’s Chuseok celebration was, but I just can’t let the incident that took place tonight pass. In fact, I’m still shaken at the moment.

My husband and I were in the computer room. He was reading a comic book and I was typing. My parents-in-law were in their room, sound asleep. The neighborhood was quiet, except for the occasional giggling, guffawing and swearing of the teenagers smoking in the parking lot, which can be heard from our window. Someone was singing hysterically while his friends were laughing. My husband and I thought the singing was hilarious, so we also laughed. Soon, our candid singer left with his friends, and it was quiet again. After a while, we heard someone saying “sh*bal” (the F-word in Korean). It isn't unusual to hear Koreans say that word. We hear that a lot from teeanagers hanging out in the parking lot outside our apartment. It's sort of a friendly expression to them. Some drunk ajossis and ajummas (middle-aged men and women in Korea) like to say that word, too.

We didn’t pay attention to the cursing until it got louder and louder. I could no longer concentrate on what I was doing, so I muttered, “시끄러!” (Noisy!) The noise became more disturbing when a woman screamed and another one was crying for help. My husband jumped from his seat and went out of the house to see what was going on. The noise was coming from the entrance of our apartment. We live on the first floor, a few feet away from the entrance, so we could hear everything. The noise woke up my parents-in-law. Omonim (mother-in-law) went out of their bedroom and told us not to go out, but my husband barely heard her. I followed my husband outside.

At the entrance, a woman was lying on the floor. I suppose she was hurt. Another woman was screaming at a young man. It was obvious that the man was drunk. He kept shouting and cursing at the women. When we saw him kick the woman who was lying on the floor and attempting to kick the other woman who was trying to stop him, we called his attention. My husband said, “야!” (Hey!). I think that he was about to confront the man, but the woman who was trying to stop the intoxicated young man was telling my husband it’s all right, they’re okay. When the man realized that we were attempting to intervene, he stared fiercely at us and bawled, “왜?” (Why?) I told him I was going to call the police. The woman who was trying to stop him said that won’t be necessary, but the man would not stop shouting and he was attacking the woman who was defending him. “That’s it! I’m calling the police now!” As I was saying this in English, I was making the phone gesture. The woman was yelling at me, “하지마!” (I don’t know why she was defending that scum.) I was already raising my voice, so my husband took me inside the house before getting myself into trouble. My husband called the police and told them to hurry up. We didn’t go out anymore, but we watched through the window. The cursing and shouting continued until the police arrived.

My husband waited for the police to come before he went out. He told me that the woman who was trying to stop me from calling the police is the man’s aunt. The other woman is also a relative. We don’t know what really happened. We don’t actually care about their family problem, but as neighbors who witnessed the commotion, somehow we felt responsible for the welfare of the two women who were physically assaulted by a man whose brain had shrank from too much alcohol.

My husband and I have seen Koreans quarrel in public many times, but we have never seen a man physically assault a woman until tonight. It was inexcusable. I am sure that some of our neighbors heard the cursing, screams and cry for help, but none of them did anything about it. Their ignoring the whole thing is also inexcusable. Nobody called the police but my husband. The police just stopped the fight and left right away, but a few hours after the incident, I heard them talking over a loud speaker. They were giving warning to two other drunk men who were shouting and swearing.

 

 


From Korea with Love
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Korean Phrases Ep. 6: "한 귀로 듣고 한 귀로 흘린다."

Fly to Seoul with Eva Air X Hello Kitty Airplanes~ LAX airport launch!

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Fly to Seoul with Eva Air X Hello Kitty Airplanes~ LAX airport launch!

 

This week I had the amazing opportunity to attend a VIP event to unveil the newest Hello Kitty themed jet ( Boeing 777-300ER)  by Taiwanese airline Eva Air at the Los Angeles LAX airport! Yes, You can fly the Hello Kitty airplane out of the USA now!!   Eva Air has worked with Sanrio in the past on several different Hello Kitty-tastic plane designs, the newest one titled “Hand in Hand” features 19 characters in the Sanrio family and is by far the cutest one yet!

Eva Air launched its very first Hello Kitty jet in 2005~ and as of 2013  they have 5 shorter-range planes (Airbus A330s) that fly to Japan, Korea, Hong Kong, Mainland China and Guam. ”Hand in Hand”  is the first long-range aircraft (Boeing 777) and will be flying 3 times a week out of LAX!

This was a celebration not only because of the new “Hand in Hand” design and Boeing 777 launch, but also because this day was the very first landing of an Eva Air Hello Kitty plane in America!!!!   I have tried to book flights on Sanrio planes in the past, but the flights are rare and mainly within Asia, so having LAX as a proper stop at last is so exciting!  How can you not have fun on a Hello Kitty airplane?

We arrived to the party a little early before the plane landed (it was on its way from Taipei!) so thankfully it was not too crowded to get in~  however the event was very small and mainly for press so even at its peek it was not overly crowded.  More kitty for us!!

Hello Kitty and my favorite little guy Dear Daniel looking sharp in the Eva Air Uniforms!

In the hallway we were greeted by giant kitty boarding passes.  The real passes actually look like this!

The hallway was also decorated with some of the Sanrio art made for Eva Air.  These appear on other planes!

  

Stephiee~  one of the designers behind the clothing brand Japan LA ! She is wearing the new Tuxedo Sam dress coming out this October~ he is just one of several character dresses they are doing!

♥ ♥ ♥

Maria~  designer for the adorable jewelry line Locketship rocking Japan LA X Sanrio leggings and an altered vintage dress!

My outfit for this event was a super comfy caveman Hello Kitty sweater by Japan LA Clothing!  This is part of their 2014 Spring collection so please look forward to it because it is going to be a lot of fun! ^^  the necklace was a piece of mine sponsored by The Jammy a few months ago, and my Hello Kitty bag is from Loungefly!

Time to check in and get our passes!

First goodie of the night, cute red Hello Kitty bow from Eva Air!!

Some of the adorable flight attendants for Eva Air Hello Kitty plane!

This event had a BUNCH of mascots walking around, apparently these are the crew from Puroland (aka the Hello Kitty theme park) in Japan!  We had to jump on Kiki and Lala for photos of course!!  They are my favorite characters ^^

For the event they flew in a lot of special talent from Japan~  including two official Sanrio character artists who would draw art boards for you!  Ahhhh I wanted one so bad, but within minutes the line had maxed out and they could not take any more appointments T__T

Kammie’s beautiful Hello Kitty in her Eva Air flight attendant uniform!

They also flew in a Sanrio nail art specialist as well!  Sadly while waiting to try and get an art board appointment she filled up and was unable to take any more as well T_T dang, I had to admire from a distance!

 

She had an adorable selection of character nails for you to select!  Gah, which one would you pick?

 

Even though she only had two hours, she worked with a lot of speed and beautiful detail~ as expected!! wow *_*

Ta-da!!  Behold this adorable nail art of Lala from the Twin Stars!  Everyone that managed to get a manicure slot got one character nail due to time~ one is enough though!

 

The always fabulous Chrissa Sparkles appears in the Hello kitty costume dress by Japan LA Clothing! Onch Movement also arrived looking  pink and adorable as ever with his awesome dripping necklace! Stephiee’s little one ditched us for him lol

Mandie of Geeky Glamorous and I rocking two pieces from the Cave Kitty collection together! She had little dinosaur earring and added a fur collar, so good!!

 

Jamie, the owner of Japan LA on Melrose and Japan LA Clothing sporting her very own badtz maru skirt with suspenders design!  This item is actually for sale right now, I am so tempted to get one.

Sanrio characters skipping around and being adorable with cute costumed tutu attendant girls. Business as usual in Kawaii-land!

Michelle aka “Chubby Bunny” arrives and braces for the kawaii lol!  Michelle is the designer of the Hello Kitty bow you see on her head~  those have become official Sanrio bows and they use them in a lot of events and sell them at select shops!  She also sews clothing for a lot of the Hello Kitty mascot events and does a million other cool things.

 

Juliedoll and Kammie both looked extremely adorable at the party!

Hats off to the catering of the event, even the girls on staff had adorable uniforms topped with bows.

Everything was creative and yummy! I loved the bitty little pancakes with honey they served *_*

For sweets they had a huge tower of Hello Kitty red velvet cupcakes, oh yesssss

All kitty, all the time.

Chrissa cupcake attack!! 

In the back of the event tent they had all the goods from Eva Air X Sanrio on display for everyone to admire.  The detail was really impressive, they went all out with almost every element of this airline!  Even the plastic utensils had little characters on them!

Adorable display of the in-flight snacks~ peanut bags and ice cream, Hello Kitty themed of course!

When the plane pulled up it was actually my first time even seeing the new art~ I went not having any clue what it would look like at all!   The other designs were cute in a traditional Sanrio way with basic reds..greens…yellows etc, but this one is just SUPER ADORABLE PASTEL-TASTIC!

Had a bit of a mini freak out from the cuteness of characters holding hands on a colorful jet.

As the stairs pulled up to prepare for the people inside the plane (just a select few including a member of X Japan if I heard right) the mascot characters and girls did some adorable musical numbers in Japanese from Puroland~  it was extremely cute!!!

My Melody and Kuromi 

Finally everyone lined up to greet the real guests of honor, Hello Kitty and Dear Daniel!

Ready to hop aboard and check out this amazing plane!!!

 

Inside the cabin they had some of the airline goodies on display!  Almost all the basics have a fun Hello Kitty twist to them on this plane~  Eva Air claims to have almost 100 different items for passengers made special for this theme!

Yes, they even have Hello Kitty toilet paper for the airline!!

Some of the in-flight items on the Hello Kitty planes actually change based on the season!  Menus, coasters, napkins, etc have different designs depending on the time of year you fly ♥

How about an in-flight Hello Kitty snack? This features the fall theme!

 

The flight attendants had cute pink Hello Kitty aprons with little bows at the hip!  All the insert cards you normally find in the seat pockets also had been specially made to keep with the Sanrio theme!  Details!!

If you are a well-behaved passenger you can get special goodies if you ask like memo pads, playing cards, and pens!

First stop, first class!  Put on your snobby face! Note the fancy Hello Kitty version of  ”Birth of Venus” hanging on the wall, haha nice!  This area was just like most of the standard first class areas nowadays on international flights.  I fly to Asia a lot and would love to be able to afford sitting in these booths so I can sleep properly!

First class had very classy Sanrio family pillows, but the lack of color made it a little boring.  I thought for such expensive seats it would be a little more impressive, you know?  It was very much “this is first class with a Sanrio pillow” sort of feel~  so no need to fret if you can not afford the fancy ticket, you would not be missing too much of the kitty experience!

In first class on the Eva Air Sanrio planes they have a fancy variation of Hello Kitty dinner!

Economy class was a little more colorful vs first class on Hello Kitty Eva Air!

Economy seemed nice and spacious~ however we found the color disappointing plus the lack of custom seat fabric or art on the walls!  I have been on a few Japanese airlines that did this in the interior and it makes the whole atmosphere really fun during your trip! More Kitty or pretty colors please!!

The pillows and head rest slips are ADORABLE though!  I wanted to take one so bad!  *_*

Just sit back~

and relax!

Meals and snacks are provided on all Sanrio x Eva Air flights ♥  Both Western and Eastern menus are available, as well as special meals for children, vegetarians and those with religious restrictions apparently!  These are included in the ticket price like most airlines, and will not cost you extra.

I was SO EXCITED to see they had more of the plane food on display, I LOVE THEMED FOOD.  I had come across a few images online of the Sanrio-themes meals on Eva Air, but seeing it in person is always the best!

The detail on the dinner plates was amazing for airline food, it was like something I would gladly order at a cafe!   Tiny little fruits cut into hello kitty faces, and a salad finished off with her little bow!

Note in this box set that they are using the special Hello Kitty bow container design for this airline!

Another yummy Eva Air Hello Kitty meal~  complete with some Hello kitty strawberry biscuits for dessert!

and finally a Hello Kitty fish dinner with a side of Kitty fruit and Kitty cake!  They do have other options (online I saw lots more sample meals) but they change based on the time of year. All the plates are adorable though, and that is what is important I guess!!

And if flying does not sit well with your tummy, no need to worry!  You can look kawaii with your very own Hello Kitty barf bag!!!

Flashing on the screens they had a special Sanrio-themed pre-departure video to greet passengers!

Seated and ready for takeoff!

KW Chang states that he brought about the concept of Hello Kitty jets to make flying fun~ well done!

Some of the Eva Air Sanrio Pilots made an appearance after landing the plane! I wonder if they enjoy flying this plane any more vs the others?  I think it must be fun to have passengers actually excited to be on the plane you are flying XD

♥ ♥ ♥

Awesome fact: EVA Air’s Chairman, KW Chang was a pilot for this event today flying the plane from Taipei to LA!  Apparently he often acts as a pilot for this route, how cool is that?  Next time you fly, the entire airlines chairman may just be your pilot *_*

 

If you are itching to shop and hoard some special Hello Kitty items beyond the freebies you need not worry, Eva Air has teamed up with Sanrio to offer a really nice selection of very special items you can purchase in flight with the provided catalogs!   Bags, key chains, puzzles, models, jewelry, even a special Hello Kitty edition phone!

 

Many of the items are not just Hello Kitty goodies, but unique to this airline only!

Brand new fold-able keyboard designed after the new “Hand in Hand” plane art & a beautiful Hello Kitty necklace complete with a tiny airplane to remember your experience!

Eva Air X Sanrio mascot key chains for $30USD !  If I ever get to take this plane I want to buy these for Nara and I *_*

Eva Air’s special Hello Kitty check-in area! Photo source pichi chuang / Reuters / MSNBC

The amazing Kitty times does not end with what we experienced though.  Although I did not have the opportunity to view it myself (yet)  Eve Air also has additional themed items like fragile stickers for bags, luggage tags, boarding passes, lounge seating within the airport and the most amazing check-in kiosk area pretty much EVER complete with custom Hello Kitty software.  Apparently these areas are at several airports with Eva Air, including LAX which was listed online to be opening as of 9/20/2013

Out of the 17 weekly flights between LAX and Taipei through Eva Air, 3 of them will feature this unique Hello Kitty Airplane experience!  Flights go to several fun destinations like Tokyo, Seoul, Hong Kong, and more~  but since this is a Taiwanese company they all stop in Taipei!  So yes, you can not get a direct flight from LA to Tokyo, but you can go from LA to Taipei to Tokyo.  I really would love to visit Taiwan someday though, so this is an amazing excuse *_* is that bad to base travel on just an airline? lol

♥ ♥ ♥

So just how expensive is it to fly with Hello Kitty and Eva Air? Tickets include baggage and meal costs and range from around $1000-$1500 per person, which is actually fairly standard for flying to Asia from California!  Obviously if you use those cheap ticket webpages you can sometimes book flights for around $800-$900, but I would gladly pay around $1000 or so for a trip on this airline!  It is a magical experience for sure

GIFT BAG

Even though I was unable to get a sign board or nail art, I was excited to see a pile of  Eva Air gift bags for guests!!  what could be inside?

Aside from the cute plush Eva Air x Hello Kitty bow, they included a nice packet all about the airline and special features it offered + a cute kitty keychain and hello kitty pen.

The MAIN gift was this awesome mini airplane model of the new “Hand in Hand” design though!  They have these for every plane model in the air, so you can collect them as you fly, this one is my favorite!

I LOVE it!!  Need to find a cool spot for it in my office, thank you Eva Air and Sanrio!

Thank you Sanrio X Eva Air for putting on such an adorable event and bringing so much cuteness to the skies!  I hope someday soon I can fly in this plane and get the full experience ^^  Also a big thank you to Japan LA for bringing me as a guest, I had such a wonderful time and hope all of you reading enjoyed the photos I managed to snap!  Leave some comments, I love reading them!

Links

Eva Air X Hello Kitty official site

Japan LA Clothing Official site

What was your favorite Hello Kitty detail on the plane?  Would you buy a ticket to fly with Sanrio X Eva Air?  Where would you go?  Have you flown before?  Comment below and share!!  

 


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Naewonjeongsa Temple – 내원정사 (Seodaeshin-dong, Busan)

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 The stunning golden pagoda that sits front and centre on the main altar inside the Daeung-jeon at Naewonjeongsa Temple in Busan.

Hello Again Everyone!!

Lately, I’ve been exploring Busan more and more. With it being so close to where I live, and with literally thousands of temples to explore, it was a no-brainer. This past weekend, my exploration of Busan brought me to Naewonjeongsa Temple in Seodaeshin-dong, which is in close proximity to Busan Station.

Situated on Mt. Eomgwangsan, you’ll first approach Naewonjeongsa Temple up a mountain road. This is a bit strange, since the temple lies just above the busy Busan Station area. Finally arriving in the mid-sized parking lot, and having passed by the numerous mountain hikers along the way, you’ll first see the front façade to Naewonjeongsa Temple.

In the centre of the front façade are the Cheonwangmun Gate and the bell pavilion above it. Passing under the bell pavilion and through the Cheonwangmun Gate, you’ll finally enter the temple courtyard; however, before doing that, take the time to enjoy the paintings in and around the Cheonwangmun Gate. There are unique guardian paintings on the front doors, intricately painted Heavenly Kings, and the ceiling to the gate is beautifully adorned with both yellow and blue dragons and phoenixes.

Standing in the temple courtyard, and if you look back from where you first came, you’ll notice a bell pavilion that you can actually have a seat and take a rest in (or at least that’s what I saw a couple Koreans doing). While the bell is rather plain, the base to the large drum is demonic, while the cloud gong has a pair of Biseon dancing around it. But the real highlight is the large sized fish gong with an equally large sized red pearl in its mouth. To the right and left of the bell pavilion, and outlining the temple courtyard, are two rows of temple buildings. These buildings act as the monks’ quarters, visitors centre, and administrative office. There is even a nice row of Chinese plum trees to accompanying the building to the right.

Straight ahead is the true highlight to Naewonjeongsa Temple, which just so happens to be the main hall at the temple. Surrounding the exterior walls to the main hall are an assortment of paintings. To the rear are a colourful set of Shimu-do murals that are joined by beautiful Buddha and Bodhisattva paintings. But the real rare thing about these paintings are the Dokseong (The Recluse) and Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) murals that are painted on either side of the main hall. I’ve never seen this before. Also, the main hall is surrounded by a mature bamboo forest.

The interior to the main hall is absolutely golden. This is emphasized by the large golden pagoda that sits on the main altar. This five tier pagoda is joined by two large sized statues of Moonsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyun-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). To the right are three golden reliefs. The closest one to the pagoda is Moonsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). Next to this it is a relief of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). And on the far right wall is a golden relief of the Yeongsan Assembly. To the left of the main altar are another three golden reliefs. The first to the left of the main altar is Bohyun-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). Next to it is the guardian relief. And finally, there is another golden relief hanging on the far left wall of Yaksayore-bul (The Buddha of Medicine). In addition to all these reliefs, there are also two towers filled with miniature statues of Buddhas beside the main altar. As you can tell, this main hall is filled with amazing artistry.

To the right of the main hall is the Samseong-gak. All the artwork to this hall is housed inside it. The three most popular shaman deities, Chilseong (The Seven Stars), Dokseong, and Sanshin are housed inside this hall. They are all black in hue and well executed in design.

HOW TO GET THERE: To get to Naewonjeongsa Temple, you’ll first have to take the subway, line one, to the Seodaesin Subway Station, stop #107. From there, you can take a taxi up to Naewonjeongsa Temple. It’ll cost you 3,600 won, and the ride will take about 10 minutes (2.6 kilometres).


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OVERALL RATING:6.5/10.Just for the main hall alone, this temple deserves this rating with the large sized golden pagoda, six golden reliefs, and the very rare paintings of both Sanshin and Dokseong painted on the exterior walls. Additionally, all of the instruments inside the bell pavilion are unique in their own right. And top that off with the masterfully painted shaman murals, and you have more than enough reason to explore the little traveled Naewonjeongsa Temple near Busan Station.

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The front facade at the temple with the sun peaking through the trees in the early morning hours.

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 The Cheonwangmun Gate and bell pavilion at Naewonjeongsa Temple.

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One of the main entrance doors at the temple with a unique guardian painting on it.

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Just one of the elaborately painted Heavenly Kings inside the Cheonwangmun Gate.

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The intricate ceiling of the Cheonwangmun Gate.

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The first site that greets you to the temple courtyard.

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The main hall, or the Daeung-jeon, at Naewonjeongsa Temple.

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The beautiful and intricate main hall.

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It’s pretty easy to spot the large golden pagoda that’s front and centre inside the main hall.

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A better look at the golden interior.

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Just one of the golden reliefs inside the main hall. Literally, the interior walls are lined with gold.

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A contemplative visitor to the temple enjoys the scenic beauty of Naewonjeongsa Temple.

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The very rare exterior walled painting of Dokseong (The Recluse) that adorns the main hall at the temple.

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The main hall is also surrounded by mountains and this bamboo forest.

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The Samseong-gak shaman shrine hall at Naewonjeongsa Temple.

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A unique view between the main hall and the Samseong-gak.

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The Dokseong painting inside the Samseong-gak.

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And a look at the Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) mural, as well.

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The beautiful view from the Samseong-gak.

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And a look from the main hall out onto the temple courtyard and the bell pavilion.

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The massive fish gong inside the bell pavilion at Naewonjeongsa Temple.

Japan no More....

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Hello everyone,

I've been postponing my blogging for almost 2 weeks already, I just didn't feel like blogging and then I felt frustrated part because of my lack of posting and some other things not worth talking about, anyway, I didn't blog before because whenever I'm upset I end up complaining or the ideas just don't flow.

Finally I decided not to continue blogging about Japan and blog about what's going now now... Korea.

IF you still want to know a little bit more about our trip to Japan, I would recommend checking my sis' blog here, she's quite a good blogger and got some better pictures than mine :D

Peeeeeeeeeeeeeace Yo!
lol

-Gisela V. 

Korea and Me

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It's no secret I love Korea, and when we decided to pack our backs an Travel the world, Korea was a MUST, after some crazy 5 weeks in Japan it was time to Fly to Korea for what would be (is) a VERY different kind of traveling, 1st because we are not staying for 1-2 weeks, 2nd because this isn't like Italy last year, that we got to live the Tourist life, this time we are staying a little bit longer and just enjoying the city in a more day-to-day kind of way, we are not staying in nice Hotels (or even Hostels for that matter), our expenses are not being payed by someone else and we are basically on our own.
Bye bye Japan.... see you soon!
Despite this being my 3rd time in the ROK, I can't help but to feel some pressure because I'm the one who is supposed to "know" around and because studying Korean for a couple of months (Self studying!) means I speak Korean according to my sister lol.
Bigbang welcoming us to Korea

We arrived 18 days ago after a VERY short 2 hour flight from Japan, while we were still in Japan I was very excited about comming to Korea and it wasn't until we were leaving for the airport that I realized that we didn't (still don't) have ANY plans for Korea, we only knew we were staying for a "long" time and that's when I started to panic, not knowing exactly where are you going is nerve wrecking, but somehow arriving at Incheon seemed more natural to me than last time I was here, so, it was decided... YOLO would be the new motto, I know some of you don't like that whole YOLO thing, but when you've nothing to lose, YOLO seems to be a good way to enjoy life.

This time we are staying with a friend, this is already a challenge because we are used to living on our own, yea, the WorkCamp was sort of like a Training of "how-to-share-a-room" but it was only for 2 weeks so, I feel like this is totally different, you have to learn how things are done around and just the basic House rules, if you have ever been here, you know the recycling culture here is different, I've read there are special bags for Cans, Glass, etc, so, that was something we had to learn from the beggining (more about this later), just being in someone else's house can be awkward sometimes, isn't it?

Anyway, we arrived on September 4th at 4:30pm, after migration and getting our lauggage, we took a Bus to Seoul where we would meet my friend, we got to my friend's house, left our backpacks and went out to have dinner... my sis' 1st REAL Korean food, we had Samgyeopsal and then went to hang out at the Banpo Hangang Park.
Samgyeopsal
The next day was our 1st Official day in Seoul and the plan was go out around the area and familiarize with what would be our "neigbourhood" for the next weeks, check out the nearby restaurants, stores, markets, buses, subway, etc, after this, we decided to take it slow and just make our plans day to day, meet some of my friends and just try to let go that "traveler" life for a little bit....
We found the GOOOOOOOOODS!
Of course we had some things we HAD to do, but besides the "touristy" things we are up to almost anything, so, if you are in Seoul and want to hang out...let me know! lol

The first days, I took my sister to some places I know, Insadong and the Chonggyechon stream being the 1st thing on our list, that day, we met the coolest girl outside the KTO Offices, she was promoting the KOINMO (Korea in Motion) even and we ended up buying tickets for the show Nanta and got Free tickets for the N Seoul Tower and a Free coffee from "Angel-in Us"... oh yea!!

We walked around, got lost, walked some more trying to find suitable food for my sister (She's soooo picky...) and walk some more, went for drinks to "The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf" by the Chonggyechon (This is the Coffee Bean where Kim Sam Soon goes on the show... and you know how much I love Kim Sam Soon!!!!) and then went to chill by the stream and decided to call it a night by going back "home" after having Burgers(!!!) for dinner.

얼큰 만두국 for lunch
Sunset at Gwanghwamung Square

King Sejong the Great
Admiral Yin Sun-Shin
Dinner - Not so awesome and took over 1 hour to be ready
I guess this is it for now :D, but be pending because next post is about my frien Jo-anna's Korean Traditional Wedding!!!

-Gisela V-



The Julie/Julia/Gisela Project
Food & Culture
TheJulieJuliaGiselaProject.blogspot.com

 
 
The Julie Julia Gisela Project

 

 

Meet the hosts of GO! Billy Korean

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This video interview introduces you to the hosts of GO! Billy Korean on YouTube - Billy and Keykat.

It's all in Korean, but there are English subtitles as well.

Around 50 videos, over 2000 YouTube fans, and 50k+ views have only been possible thanks to you, the viewers, for supporting me, commenting on my videos and sharing them, and encouraging me to keep going.

GO! Billy Korean will continue to grow, and I look forward to future announcements here on this web site, and on my YouTube channel. Thank you everyone for your support.

Sincerely,
Billy & Keykat
www.GoBillyKorean.com

Here is a link to the video from YouTube:

"Meet the hosts of GO! Billy Korean"

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Wol-jeong Bridge and the Traditional Village

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Wol-jeong Bridge and the Traditional Village

wol-jong bridge

After seeing this bridge on John Steele’s blog post, I just had to head out there and get some shots. I am little burnt that those guys traveled all the way down here and didn’t even call! (LOL, just kidding guys… but next time…) The Wol-jeong bridge is still under construction at the moment but  they light up most of the bridge for everyone to take a look at.

9638281304_53131373f2_c

Next to the bridge is a beautiful hanock village called “Kyochon Ma-ul” and it is a mixture of old and new hanock homes which have been converted into restaurants, cafes, and cultural centres. There is even a traditional winery there. The parking is a little difficult but it is a great place to check out.

9638284458_147c6a5aeb_c (1)

One of the most beautiful cafes that I have seen in a long time

Another good point about the area is that it is connected in a way to the surrounding sites. Located just behind the large tombs near the Cheomseongdae observatory, one can (with a bit of time) get there from Anapji Pond. Thus, it’s location is pretty good if you are wanting to check out all of the surrounding sites in the area.

9635031911_ca0c9e5700_c

For me the hanock village is a great addition to the area as it adds a lot of beauty to the area and with the addition of cafes and beautiful restaurants, it is a place the youth can enjoy as well as the older generation.  Even for myself, I like the area and what they have done with it.

classic anapji pond at sunset

classic anapji pond at sunset

Here is a map of the area to give you an idea of where the bridge is. You see from the map that it is tucked away behind the toms and near the museum but if you go by car you have to drive all the way around past cheomseongdae.

gyeongju

Lesbian(?) Music Video: 골라봐 (Take Your Pick) Translation

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This video is a bit old, but I just discovered it. The group Ten (텐) Wreleased 골라봐 back in 2009. Two women are sexually assaulted on the subway (probably line 2) and proceed to comfort one another (eventually physically). This video came out right before I moved to Korea for the first time, but I hadn't heard of it till 2013. Does anyone know what the reaction was like in Korea?


Watching the video you would think "Hey, those ladies love ladies". Then you take a look at the lyrics.

Translation of lyrics (by TKQ)


자! 골라 골라보세요 네 골라보세요                        
So! Take your pick. Yeah, take your pick.


아~눈이 높으시네요! 탁월한 선택입니다! 골라!    
Oh, you have such high standards. It's an excellent choice. Choose!


골라봐! 골라봐!
Take your pick. Take your pick.

고르고 고르고 골라봐도 별 남자 없어
Even if you choose and choose and take your pick, there isn't a star man.


따지고 따지고 따져도 아니 아니 아니
Even if you nitpick and nitpick, no no!


나 하나 바라보고 언제나 내 곁에 있는
I always am looking at one on my side.


내 남자가 최고예요
My boy is the best.


한땐 나도 잘나갔던 여자였었죠
At one point I had been a girl always on a roll.


학교에서 알아주던 킹카였었고
At school, I was recognized as the hot one.


남자들이 먼저 말을 걸어올때도
Even if the boys first talked to me

살짝 튕기면서 콧방귀 꼈죠
I would secretly flick them off while pooh-poohing their suggestion


그렇게 도도하게 살던 내가
So I lived haughtily


우연히 이 남잘 만나게 되었고
Accidentally I ended up with this man

그다지 잘난 것 하나 없었지만
So he wasn't distinguished a bit

그 남자 이젠 내 사랑인걸요
Now that boy is my love


고르고 고르고 골라봐도 별 남자 없어
Take your pick. Take your pick.


따지고 따지고 따져도 아니 아니 아니
Even if you choose and choose and take your pick, there isn't a star man.


나 하나 바라보고 언제나 내 곁에 있는
I always am looking at the one on my side.

내 남자가 최고예요
My boy is the best.


골라 골라 골라 (hey) come on come on love (골라)
Choose choose choose

주위를 둘러봐 다같이 say (골라봐! 골라봐!)
Take a look all around together say (Take your pick! Take your pick!)

그래 머리부터 발끝까지 멋진 남자들은 많지만
From the head to the foot there are handsome men but

내게 너 만한 사람은 없어 사랑해 honey
To me there isn't any one who I love fully but you, honey


tv에는 잘생긴 꽃미남도 많고
On TV there are many handsome flower boys and

하나같이 생긴 게 다 나의 이상형
All made the same they are my ideal boys

심술나서 이런 얘길 해버렸더니
They end up getting cranky from this talk

웃으면서 내가 귀엽다네요
While laughing, whoa, I'm looking pretty


촌스런 말투에 매력도 없는
In his boorish accent he didn't have charm

첫눈에 끌리는 남잔 아니지만
It wasn't love at first sight but

볼수록 착하고 진실한 모습에
As I saw him he had a kind and honest character

내 마음 조금씩 빠져드네요
My heart slowly fell for him



고르고 고르고 골라봐도 별 남자 없어
Take your pick. Take your pick.


따지고 따지고 따져도 아니 아니 아니
Even if you choose and choose and take your pick, there isn't a star man.

나 하나 바라보고 언제나 내 곁에 있는
I always am looking at the one on my side.

내 남자가 최고예요
My boy is the best.


(x2)



내 남자가 최고예요 
My boy is the best.

~~

So after looking at the lyrics, the song doesn't seem quite as queer. Anyone have any suggestions with my translation? What ever happened to Ten?

Two mind-blowing recipes: Wang Galbi & Dduk Galbi

Seoul Search: Part I

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Image

So I’m back in Daegu after a lengthy Chuseok (Thanksgiving) break. I had a few days off of school so I decided to pay a visit to Seoul, the destination that almost everyone knows about in Korea.

Seoul is the capital city of Korea, heavily populated with foreigners and English/Engrish signs. Restaurants, shops, theaters, etc. are stacked on top of each other, and what’s there one day is gone the next. The sparkling newness of the storefronts stay for a while and then disappear just as the paint dries. Such is the pace of life here – “Dynamic Korea” as they call it. Directions based on landmarks are most often hit or miss because of the rapid pace of change here, so finding the hostel I was staying at in Hongdae was a little bit of a challenge. Luckily the subways are easy to get a handle on, and although you have to transfer a lot of times, you can get to a very specific location without really having to hike anywhere.

Travelling with someone who had already been to Seoul already was a real stroke of luck, because I got to check out all the cool niche places that have the best craft beer in Korea. From Watermelon Wheat to a honey IPA, sitting outside in a super casual setting and having a few cold ones in the middle of the bustling day was my kind of tourism.

One of my favorite activities in Seoul was going to see the Studio Ghibli and Alphonse Mucha exhibits at the Seoul Arts Center. The art scene is really packing a punch here, as the museum spaces are expansive, gorgeously designed buildings that let in a lot of light and allow many visitors in. One thing that bothered me was the sheer volume of people there – it was amazing to see a culture so in-tune with the progress of art, but this made looking at the art grating on the nerves to say the least. There is a line that snakes through the entirety of the exhibit and people slowly shuffle along the walls viewing work. There is no open art viewing here – everyone snakes around the gallery as a homogeneous unit and view art at a set pace (which is agonizingly slow). Very different from art viewing in New York, which allows for a lot more free movement around the gallery spaces. I found myself deviating from the line and skipping around a bit to avoid spending over 3 hours on one exhibit. On view were several beautiful prints, paintings and lithographs by Alphonse Mucha, one of my favorite artists representing the Art Noveau movement. The pieces were on a larger scale than I had ever imagined; almost life-sized figures adorned with flowers and arabesque-ing locks of hair. There was also a good deal of photography in the gallery that gave a sense of historical context to the work, and the pieces were grouped according to specific phases and themes in Mucha’s career. While I was there I also spent a good amount of time viewing the animation slides of the Studio Ghibli films. It was amazing to see the actual sketches and plans from movies like Spirited Away and Howl’s Moving Castle. Some more interesting panels were the ones that outlined a sequence of panning, where several sheets of paper were simply taped together and the idea of the scene was hashed out. I’m glad that I got to see the exhibits before they were taken down, and I hope to go back to Seoul again soon to see what new art it has to offer.

Seoul, especially Hongdae and Itaewon, had some really great eats too. I had burritos at a place called Vatos, a Korean-Mexican fusion restaurant where we had to be put on a waiting list for two hours (!). Popular amongst expats and Koreans alike, that queso and burrito were heaven sent. The watermelon wheat beer I had was a little too sweet for my liking but I’m glad I tried it nonetheless. Other good eats were a pork spine stew, cooked on a mini stove in front of you, full of veggies and fall off the bone meaty goodness. It was super hot temperature-wise but very filling. For breakfast one day we dipped into a fried rice restaurant and some mozzarella cheese, bacon, and sweet and sour sauce later I contentedly rolled out of there with a food baby and enough energy to carry me through the rest of the day.

The shopping area of Myeongdong is beautiful, modern, and energetic. The clean lines of the Uniqlo and the hipness of H&M pave the way through main roads teeming with fashionable young Koreans, clack-clacking away with their high heels and armfuls of shopping bags. When the lights go on, the neon glow drowns out the night sky and you’re left with a thrilling electric daylight to continue shopping with until you bust a heel.  If I wasn’t so low on money waiting on my first paycheck I would have definitely bought something, but alas, window shopping was all I was fated to do this time around. Myeongdong, I’m coming back for you~~

And lastly, the nightlife was awesome. I wish I wasn’t so tired, but I got to experience the sounds of a pretty rad two man band at an indie-rock inspired bar called FF. I got an autograph and everything when the show was over. Free drinks and a chill atmosphere were aplenty.  We wanted to go clubbing, as several weird/cool venues were around (“Gorilla”??) but by 2am we were way too tired to go on. Definitely need to visit again and scope out some good clubs next time.

The picture above, I believe, captures the vibe of Seoul. The new, slowly encircling the old, until one day (maybe soon) that wave will crash and wipe the old away. If there was a “way of life” for Seoul it would be this: the quest for modernity isn’t for the sake of improvement alone – it’s obsessive. That, and you better watch where you cross the street because the threat of being run over is very real.


Kim Iman – Two Days Before the Autumnal Equinox

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Chubun

Kim Iman (金履萬, 김이만, 1683-1758) was a Chosun dynasty literati bureaucrat. He was of the Yecheon Kim Clan (醴泉金氏, 예천김씨); his courtesy name (字, 자) was Jungsu (仲綏, 중수); his pen name was Hakgo (鶴臯, 학고). He is most noted for his actions during the flood in modern day Yangsan (梁山, 양산) in 1740. To prevent a flood, it is said that he spent all his wealth in constructing embankments. He also took great pains in fighting against regional tax collector corruption exploiting commoners.

In the poem below, Kim Iman commemorates the Autumnal Equinox, or Chubun (秋分, 추분) as it in known in Korean. As a solar term, the autumnal equinox always falls around September 23rd on the Western Gregorian Calendar, but varies on the traditional Lunar Calendar. On this day, the sun reaches the celestial longitude of 180 degrees: that is, the earth is not tilted with respect to the Sun and the length day and night are approximately the same at all points along the Earth’s surface. One Korean custom on Chubun, as depicted above, is to collect peppers and lay them out in the sun to dry.

秋分前二日 獨坐次農巖韻
추분전이일 독좌차농암운

Two Days Before the Autumnal Equinox, Sitting Alone and Borrowing Nong’am’s Rimes

天時晝夜欲平分 천시주야욕평분
寂寞山齋坐到曛 적만산재좌도훈
蕎麥綴花知白雪 교맥철화지백설
稻秔垂穗見黃雲 도갱수삭견화운
九衢車馬從他閙 구구차마종타시
三峽漁樵亦自羣 산협어초역자군
幽獨久拚無伴侶 유독구변무반려
隔林啼鳥只堪聞 격림제조지감문

Heaven’s timing and the daytime and nighttime will be evenly allocated.
In my still and quiet mountain cabin, I sit for the arriving sunset glow.
The buckwheat’s woven flowers recognize the white snow;
The rice plants’ leaning ears see the yellow clouds.
On the nine intersections, carriages and horses follow the others’ noise;
Along the three gorges, fishermen and lumberjacks also naturally gather.
Secluded and alone, I clap for awhile, without any companions.
Amid the forest, a chirping bird can only bare to hear it.

Definitions:

Heaven • time • daytime • night • to intend • evenly • to allocate
Still • quiet • mountain • hut • to sit • to arrive • evening sun’s rays
Buckwheat • barley • to weave • flowers • to know • white • snow
Rice (벼) • rice (메벼) • to lean • ears • to see • yellow • clouds
Nine • intersections • carriages • horses • to follow • other • to be noisy
Three • peaks • fishermen • lumberjacks • also • naturally • to gather
To be secluded • alone • for awhile • to clap with hands • to not have • companion • companion
Amid • forest • to chirp • birds • only • to endure • to hear

Notes:

  • 九衢(구구) – Literally means “nine forks” or “nine intersections.” Refers to the busy streets of larger cities.
  • 三峽(삼협) – Refers to the Three Gorges in China.


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Temple Stay: International Seon Center (Seoul)

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Temple Stay: International Seon Center (Seoul)

(Courtesy of the Korean Temple Stay website)

Hello Again Everyone!!

Introduction to the Temple:

The International Seon Center first opened its doors on November 15th, 2010. The center was opened so that both Koreans and ex-pats could enjoy and experience Korean Buddhism. In total, the center consists of nine floors. The first two underground floors are reserved for parking, while the final underground floor is reserved for the Education and Culture Hall. The first floor of the building houses the center’s office and restaurant. The third and fourth floor, respectively, house the Event Hall and the Dining Room. The fifth floor, and the floor you’re probably most interested in, is reserved for the Temple Stay Program; while the sixth and seventh floor consist of the monks’ living quarters and the Geumcha Seon Hall (or the Practice Hall). As you can see, this center truly has it all.

The Temple Stay program at the International Seon Center focuses primarily on meditation. In addition, you can also enjoy making prayer beads, learn about a traditional Buddhist meal, or have a dharma talk. You can also enjoy the Dharma Talk program, which takes place every Saturday night for both beginners and advanced practitioners of Buddhism.

(Courtesy of the International Seon Center website).

Directions:

To get to the International Seon Center from Seoul, you’ll need to take subway line #5 to Omokgyo Subway Station. Exit out exit #8 and walk straight until you get to the first intersection (there will be a bank on the corner). Turn left at this intersection and walk straight until you get to the Mokdong Middle School, which will be on your left. Across the street from this middle school is the nine-story International Seon Center.


크게 보기

General Schedule:

The International Seon Center runs two different types of programs. The first is the typical, one night, two days program, where participants get to live like a Buddhist monk. The other program is on Saturday night, and it’s a Dharma Talk where both beginners and advance practitioners are actively encouraged to participate. Here are the two schedules for both programs.

A: Regular Schedule:

Day One:
13:00~13:30 : Registration & Orientation
13:30~15:00 : Temple Manners & Opening Ceremony
15:00~16:20 : Self- Introduction
16:30~17:30 : Learn Traditional Buddhist Meal
17:30~18:20 : Dinner
18:30~19:00 : Evening Service
19:00~20:30 : Make 108 Prayer’s Beads
20:30~21:00 : Ready for Sleep
21:00~ : Sleep

Day Two:
03:00~03:30 : Wake Up & Wash
03:30~04:00 : Dawn Service
04:00~04:30 : 108 Bows
04:30~06:00 : Seon Mediation (in silence)
06:00~07:30 : Breakfast
07:30~09:00 : Tour to a Hermitage
09:00~10:00 : Dharma Talk
10:00~10:40 : Community Work & Survey
10:40~ : Closing Ceremony

(Courtesy of the International Seon Center website).

B: Dharma Talk Schedule:

7:00~7:30 pm  Free sitting / Personal Interview
7:30~7:40 pm  Group walking / Noble silence
7:40~8:00 pm  Group sitting / Noble silence
8:00~8:10 pm  Group walking / Noble silence
8:20~8:30 pm  Group sitting / Noble silence
8:30~9:00 pm  Dharma talk / Q&A
9:00~9:30 pm  Free talking / Personal Interview

International Seon Center Information:

Address : 319-11 Sinjeong 6-dong, Yangcheon-gu, Seoul, Korea
Tel : 02)2650-2242 / Fax : 02)2650-2201
homepage : http://www.seoncenter.or.kr/
E-mail : seoncenter@templestay.com

Fees:

Adults: 50,000 won; Teens: 50,000 won; Under 13: 30,000 won (One Night, Two Days Program)

Adults: Free – Donations Welcomed (Saturday Dharma Talk).

Links:

Reservations for the Temple Stay Program at the International Seon Center.

For more information on the Saturday evening Dharma talks.

(Courtesy of the International Seon Center website)

Queer Links from the Week


Dear Korea #099 - Just a Teeny Bit Envious

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Dear Korea #099 - Just a Teeny Bit Envious

 

I would like to start by saying that not all of the guys I know are creepers that spend their time checking out random women on the street. Heck, as far as I know, most of them are perfect gentlemen. Either that or they’ve mastered the art of controlling their peripheral vision.

Anyways, if there’s one thing I’ve noticed while living in Korea, it’s that the women here are stupid gorgeous. Not everyone agrees, and that’s totally fine (different strokes). While I’m completely aware that this may have something to do with all the plastic surgery that exists here, that doesn’t change the fact that there is a lot of eye candy in this country. I personally think some of it may have to do with the fact that they put a lot of work into looking good before stepping out into the public (though this sometimes leads to destructive behavior). Compared to lazier folks like me (I’m don’t remember the last time I got a haircut..), it makes sense that the hard working ladies here look so much prettier.

That being said, I’m feeling the need to clarify that how a woman looks does not define her worth, and that everyone is beautiful in their own way. I feel silly for thinking that I have to include this disclaimer, as it’s something I feel is super obvious, but better safe than sorry…right?

In other news…AHHH, SO CLOSE TO A HUNDRED STRIPS!!!


Jen Lee's Dear Korea

This is Jen Lee. She likes to draw.
She also likes green tea.

Got any questions, comments, or maybe even some delicious cookies you want to send through the internet? Feel free to contact us at dearkoreacomic at gmail dot com.

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I'm Back!

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Seoul Collage 2

I accidentally took a week long break from everything last week. Everything, that is, apart from trying to be an amazing tour guide for my mum and Julie.

They left last night to catch the train to Seoul where their flight left this morning. In the meantime I've been trying to scrape some order back together. It was back to school yesterday, I had about a billion pictures to sort through and upload, which I'm still in the process of doing, and still have an apartment that is desperate for a clean, despite my mum taking a whole suitcase of stuff. It's funny that even though I live in a tiny studio apartment, and I arrived with just one suitcase, I could probably fill 6 of them now. Where does it all come from?!

Later in the week I'll share what we got up to on our weekend in Seoul, and how we celebrated Chuseok, which is the Korean Thanksgiving holiday. I could get used to adopting all of these new holidays and additional time off!

I'm sad that my mum's gone, but excited that there is some change on the horizon!

I'll be back tomorrow with the next Trash, treat or stash!


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Reasons to Love Layovers at Incheon International Airport

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Reasons to Love Layovers at Incheon International Airport
Just the mention of the word delay, cancellation, or layover is enough to make even the most laid back passenger cringe.  Such occasions usually equate to extended hours spent in oft-hated, geographically-indistinguishable airports, facilities that rarely provide the amenities to entertain or comfort the weary traveler.  Fortunately for those connecting in or traveling to Seoul, Incheon International Airport is an exception.

For multiple years, Incheon Airport has been ranked the best airport in the world for its impeccable service, staff, and infrastructure developments, and while I agree that the airport deserves high marks in each of these categories- seriously, the efficiency and service is unmatched- I feel that what really makes it stand out from the others is that passengers are able to get the sense that they're really in Korea without ever leaving the airport.  Also, the sheer amount of facilities available make the airport an attraction in itself.  It's impossible to get bored at Incheon International and on my most recent visit, I decided to do some research to prove it.


The Korean Cultural Street is the place to go get a feel for traditional Korean culture.  The area boasts replicas of a giwa (tiled roof) house and a jeongja (pavilion).  Nearby, passengers can watch regularly scheduled cultural performances and reenactments and sample tasty Korean snacks from Bizeun, a rice cake shop.  I picked up some blueberry makgeolli bread there for my family to try while I waited for my flight.  It turned out to be a hit!

For a more hands-on experience, visitors can head to one of the two traditional culture experience zones where they can learn how to make Korean crafts such as pencil cases, fans, and lucky bags, and take home their handmade craft for no cost.  A variety of styles of hanbok, the national dress of Korea, can also be tried on.  This area is particularly popular with children, though the adults seemed to be having fun, too.  There are also music and dance recitals held near this site.


The Korean Culture Museum offers travelers a glimpse into the past and is probably one of the world's only airport museums that boasts 5,000 year-old historical relics.  Themes of the museum include royal culture and clothing, traditional art, Buddhist art, printing and Hangul (the Korean alphabet), and traditional music.  Although small, it's a nice way to pass the time while waiting for a flight.


After getting a feel for the country's traditional culture, visitors can experience Korean pop culture by checking out the latest flick at the CGV Theater in the Transportation Center or grab a cup of coffee with a spoon of kitsch at Charlie Brown Cafe or Hello Kitty Cafe.  Because, let's face it, a themed cafe is necessary on any itinerary in northeast Asia, even if it's at an airport.


When hunger strikes, there are a number of places to eat, ranging from fancy dine-in restaurants to fast food joints.  Although I haven't personally tried any of the restaurants, Punggyeongmaru caught my attention with its beautifully designed interior and traditional decor. Galbi tang (short rib soup) seems to be the best seller here and with most menu items under 10,000 won ($8USD) diners can fill their bellies without breaking the bank, which is uncharacteristic of most of the world's airports.


It's no secret that Seoul is a shopping heaven and this proves to be true at Incheon International, as well. I browsed quite a few of the duty free shops and although everyone seemed to be shopping for something different, it was evident that cosmetics are a hot commodity, as are packaged food items like kimchi and kim (dried seaweed).  There are also a number of high-end shops such as Burberry, Cartier, and the world's first Louis Vuitton airport boutique for those looking for luxury items.



The folks that planned Incheon International obviously took into consideration the fact that travelers stuck on layovers or long-haul flights need some R&R.  There are a number of tranquil gardens located throughout the airport and areas of secluded leather lounge chairs are available for resting.  Yet Spa on Air, the airport's in-house spa, allows visitors to experience superior pampering in a Korean jimjjilbang environment.  With a number of luxurious hot tubs and a variety of massages offered, travelers can rid of those stiff necks and sore muscles often induced by long flights.  For around 20,000 won ($16USD), they can also get a few hours of shut-eye in one of the spa's sleeping quarters.

In addition to the facilities listed above, the airport also boasts a number of playrooms for children, prayer rooms, hot showers, phone charging stations, and internet lounges, which are all free of charge.

Thanks to Incheon International Airport, gone are the days of airport-hatred and lackluster airplane travel.  It's one of the few airports in the world where you'll be smiling at the mention of a delay or wishing your layover was just a little bit longer.

Have you been to Incheon International Airport before?  What did you enjoy most about it?  What do you think needs improvement?

For more information on Incheon International Airport, including maps and location information on the facilities noted above, click here.

Words and photos by Mimsie Ladner of Seoul Searching unless otherwise noted.  Content may not be republished unless authorized.


 



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Kuiwon’s Classical Chinese Primer – Miscellaneous Monomorphemic Words

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Seonggyoyoji

The Essential Teachings of the Holy Religion (聖敎要旨, 성교요지), composed by Yi Byeok (李檗, 이벽, 1754-1785). Early Korean converts to Catholicism used Classical Chinese translations of prayers until French Missionaries entered in the mid 19th century.

This is a series of posts on monomorphemic words, which are words composed of two characters wherein the word cannot be understood by reading the characters separately. 

Miscellaneous Monomorphemic Words

Miscellaneous monomorphemic words (其他  衍聲複詞, 기타 연성복사) are words that do not follow any of the other patterns in other categories. These words typically are nouns. It should be noted that some of these words are foreign loan words. For instance, the word 葡萄(포도) originates from Persian. Many of the following words in the examples below still appear in modern Korean, albeit some not often in colloquial settings.

昔者, 莊周夢爲胡蝶, 栩栩然胡蝶也. 自喻適志與! 不知周也.
석자, 장주몽위호접, 상상연호접야. 자유적지여! 불지주야.

Formerly, I, Zhang Zhou (莊周, 장주, Jang Ju), dreamed that I became a butterfly, a joyous and ecstatic butterfly. I was happy in accordance with my whims! I did not know Zhou.
► Zhuangzi (莊子, 장자), Inner Chapters (內篇, 내편), Adjustment of Controversies (齊物論, 제 물론).

夫君子愛口, 孔雀愛羽, 虎豹愛爪. 此皆所以治身法也.
부군자애구, 공작애우, 호표애파. 차개소이치신법야.

In general, a gentleman (君子, 군자) loves his mouth, a peacock loves its feathers, and tigers and leopards love their claws. These are all methods of controlling oneself.
► Garden of Stories (說苑, 설원).

鸚鵡能言, 不離飛鳥. 猩猩能言, 不離禽獸. 今人而無禮. 雖能言, 不亦禽獸之心乎?
앵무능언, 불리비조. 성성능언, 불리금수. 금인이무례. 수능언, 불역금수지심호?

A parrot can speak, but it does not depart from flying birds. An ape can speak, but it does not depart from beasts. This man does not [obey] rites. Although he can speak, is he not also of the heart of the beast?
► Classic of Rites (禮記, 예기), Summary of Rules of Propriety Part I (曲禮上, 곡례상).

宣王曰: “當今之世無士, 寡人何好?” 王斗曰: “世無騏驎騄耳, 王駟已備矣.”
선왕왈: “당금지세무사, 과인하호?” 왕두왈: “세무기린록이, 왕사이준의.”

King Xuan of Zhou (宣王, 선왕, Seon Wang, r. 827-782 BC) said, “Right now, in the world, there are no scholarly men. Who can I like?” Wang Dou (王斗, 왕두, Wang Du) replied, “In the world, there is no Qilin (麒麟, 기린, Girin) or Lu’er (騄耳, 녹이), but you, the King, have already prepared four horses.”
► Strategies of the Warring States (戰國策, 전국책), Strategies of the Qi (齊策, 제책).

卽袖該藥入廚房, 投下珈琲茶罐.
즉수해약입주방, 투하가배차관.

[He], at that time, in his sleeve stored medicine, entered into the kitchen, and threw them into the coffee pot.
► Royal Annals of the Chosun Dynasty (朝鮮王朝實錄, 조선왕조실록) during the reign of Emperor Gojong (高宗, 고종, 1852-1919, r. 1863-1907) on September 12, 1898.

葡萄入酒辱煎烹 / 漬蜜偏憐色味淸
포도입주욕전팽 / 지밀편련색미청

The grapes enter into the wine and swelter, boiled and simmered / Having [them] soaked in honey, I very much adore their color and the taste.
► Since You Have Sent Me Grapes Soaked in Honey from Daejwa (台座, 대좌), I Send my Gratitude with a Poem of the Same Rime (台座分送漬蜜葡萄, 疊韻以謝; 대좌분송지밀포도, 첩운이사) by Choe Rip (崔岦, 최립, 1539-1612).

Nota Bene: Although the word podo (葡萄, 포도) appears like a riming monomorphemic word, a quick search in the dictionary will reveal that these characters are not riming.



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Chuseok, the first.

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I'm really overdue for a post. I'm really overdue for a lot of things these days. But in a great way. I'm always busy, and at least half of the time, it's doing things I want to be doing. Not many folk can say that.

First and foremost, I need to talk about Chuseok, which involved, yes, doing that thing I said (and B's mom said) I would never do until I was engaged -- going down to Busan to stay with the family for the holiday. I don't really feel like I have the time to give it the attention it properly deserves right now, but I'll try to get down the main events. Suffice it to say that his family is lovely, and even though I was a bit nervous for most of the three-night-four-day trip, I really couldn't have hoped for it to have gone better.

Mom, little brother and B all claimed they were shocked by his father's behavior during my visit. They'd expected him to get a good gander, and then wander off to his room to close the door and ignore me. But it was quite the opposite. When he first arrived home for the evening, I had already posted myself at the kitchen sink to wash the endless dishes produced from Mama B's cooking, more out of nervousness than anything else. He muttered something to B in the saturi that I only thought I knew through B -- his parents, around each other especially, are so much worse -- and B laughed and called my name. I turned around -- I had only briefly stopped washing the dishes to bow and greet him when he came in, and he wanted to get a good look. I'm pretty, but a bit too tall. In case you were wondering.

And then he did retire to his room. The next twenty minutes were a flurry of B being called back and forth, back and forth between his father's room and his mother in the kitchen, being told to do this or that, as well as being told numerous times to tell me to, for God's sake, stop doing the dishes and take a rest. Papa B was also taking the opportunity to ask a number of questions about me, until B finally got fed up and told him to come out and ask me himself whatever he wanted to know. At which point he fell quiet, and then told B to go fetch his comb so he could put on his wig before he came out.

I had told B a long time ago that I thought I might get a kick out of his dad. B insisted that I would just hate him, but as it turned out, I found him to be, by far, the most amusing part of the trip. The wig was only the beginning.

As soon as he emerged, I was summoned to the sofa to sit and have a chat. His first question: "I'm scary, aren't I?"

He wasn't. At least probably not in the way he meant. But what is the right answer to that question? I titled my head a bit and said, "A little...." I was then ordered to his room to take a look at a huge photo of him from his youth when he was a pro boxer hanging on the wall. To drive home the point of how scary he was. Then, called back to the sofa, I was told that although he knows he can be scary, I shouldn't be afraid, because his heart is soft.

I got back to the dishes as soon as I could. B handed out the gifts I brought for everyone, because I was too shy to do it. I really like giving gifts, but the actual moment of handing it over makes me feel uncomfortable somehow.

After an incredible home-cooked dinner of beef ribs, Little Brother, B, myself and Mama B went out drinking at a neighborhood hof. Everybody arm wrestled. I only narrowly escaped having to wrestle Mama B. We met one of her old friends -- an unni who owned a 7080 hof and who was a bit odd, to be honest. Mama B, taking advantage of the rare opportunity to go out and drink as much as she wanted without Papa B getting irate, got a bit more than a bit drunk and starting waxing poetic about I don't even remember what. Eventually, exhausted, we made it back home.

The next morning was charye, which was interesting for me, as it was my first time to see it. It was taken as a given that I would bow with the family. Before and afterwards, I hung around the kitchen trying to look for ways to be useful without getting in the way. Although Mama B stayed firmly in charge of the reins and all major tasks, I did at least manage to stay busy the entire time picking up what I could here and there. Eventually, everyone stopped barking at me to go sit down and just accepted that I was hellbent on being as helpful as I could. B, in the midst of being chewed out by both parents for "making" me do work, told them at one point to just give up -- that he could see, knowing me, that there wasn't any talking me out of it, and that I would feel too uncomfortable just sitting around while Mama B was doing all the work.

After the meal, Papa B retired to his room again, but left the door open in order to be able to stay up to date with the goings-on and to shout out his own participation from time to time. Despite the fact that both brothers had been sort of piddling around at tasks ordered to them by the mother for most of the past two days, for whatever reason, when I told B to tell his mother we would do the dishes after the meal and to take a rest, Papa B suddenly got agitated and started shouting about how men don't do dishes, and how -- and this was apparently news to the entire family, and patently false -- they were descended from yangban stock, so it was even more shameful for a man of their family to do dishes. At which point howls of laughter poured out from three separate corners of the apartment. B shouted about being slaves. The family registry was produced. I was shown a photo of a shirtless, snarling ancestor with a beard and what appeared to be a sword on his back, which somehow made total sense. And who was not yangban.

Afterwards, we spent five hours in nightmare traffic to get back to the ancestral gravesite in Papa B's hometown. Dark was falling as we climbed the mountain to do more praying and bowing. In the car on the way there and especially back, Papa B got so nostalgic and chatty that all three other members of the family spent most of the time not responding to him directly, but chortling and mocking about how noisy he was being, and what had come over him. He pointed out this spot where he had gone to school, that one where he had run a car off the road, and the other where his grandfather had lived. Mama B rolled down the window and cooed about the fresh country air. Papa B shouted out, "Smells like shit!" Later, when we rolled past a cattle farm and B announced the same sentiment in the same words, he got scolded by Papa B for using the word "shit" in front of a lady -- you should say it smells that way.

We stopped in to Cheongsong on the way back to get baeksuk, which I was really excited about. Samgyetang is one of my favorite Korean foods, but I've never had baeksuk before. The mineral water tasted like shit. I mean, it was really shocking. And this is coming from a woman whose grandparents' farmhouse was run on sulfur water. To be frank, I felt like I was drinking blood. So did everyone else except Papa B who insisted it was the best ever, even as he cringed throwing it back.

There was arm wrestling at the table. Again. The food was sublime.

We got home just past midnight.

The next day, Little Brother and B and I went out to see Haedong Yonggungsa, which was stupid crowded beyond belief. But beautiful. We had ice cream and then were summoned to a massive, lush beef restaurant on the other side of town for Papa B's treat at lunch. It was insane. I don't even want to think about how much money it cost. Everyone was shocked that he would go to such efforts, and I was very touched by it, because it reminds me of precisely the kind of stoic move a man in my own family would make to show his acceptance or kindness. He gave another brief speech about how he may not seem that kind on the surface, but how he wanted me to know that he would be kind to me. And then he cleared his throat, and promptly left us all sitting at the table to go outside and have a smoke.

The beef killed us. It was awful, in the best kind of way. It just kept coming. I bowed out on round three, and it was up to the boys to get through the last two on their own, which Papa B ordered discretely on his way out and had sent over to the table in a sneak attack.

After lunch, Little Brother and B took me to their old neighborhood and showed me the house they grew up in. I knew it was humble, from B's descriptions, but I wasn't expecting what I saw. It was little more than a shack down in a little crevice by a creek, half fallen down by now. The two brothers got reminiscing about the old days, and the mice, and how it was hard, and embarrassing, but they were happy.

B and I went out that night to meet B's oldest friend, a real strange guy who I like very much, despite his sometimes off color behavior. He's always very sweet to me and I think we bored B a bit with our chattiness.

The next day, when it was time to say goodbye, I got only about halfway through my thank you and I'm so happy to have met you speech to B's father, before he cleared his throat, waved his hand and went off to his room to close the door. B's mother took both my hands and very nearly hugged me (something B claims she never does). She sent us back with bags and bags full of stuff, and staunchly warned me to make sure B kept up with it all, because he left five bottles of expensive shampoo on the bus last time. There was an endless parade of arguing over all the things she kept trying to shove in my and B's hands, and finally we were off.

Once back up to Seoul, I quickly ran back to the apartment to shower and get dressed to go out for a friend's birthday party in Gangnam. It was nice to be back home, and to put the whole thing behind me, but it was also nice to be back home and to feel like, for the first time in Korea, I have a real family waiting for me down south anytime I need a home-cooked meal, a bottle of milk in the morning, and an almost-hug.

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