About the photo:
“How did you get on to the roof of an 80-story building?” That’s the first question everyone asks me when they see this photo. The answer is very simple: I walked in the front door and went up the elevator. Well, I did have to hide my camera and tripod, and wait until someone was leaving the building, but that’s pretty much all it took. I hit the top button in the elevator and then found the fire escape stairwell that lead to the roof. This photo was also the winning photo of the 2012 Busan Tourism Photo Contest.
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48 hours in Busan
The following is an article I wrote and photographed for Sawasdee, the Thai Airlines inflight magazine. It was published in the October of 2012 issue and called High Five for Busan. You can read the original article with photos here (flip to page 40).
I’m standing on the helipad of Korea’s second tallest building: the 80 story We’ve The Zenith Tower A. Like living in a vacuum, the sounds of the surrounding city are muted and oddly, there’s barely a breeze. Just across the way, past towers B and C, are the cloud-piercing tips of the I’Park skyscraper complex. Daniel Libeskind, the architect behind One World Trade Center in New York, designed them too look like cresting ocean waves or sails on a boat. The reflective glass gives the buildings a futuristic glare. You half expect to see flying cars swerving between the towers, as if the buildings were the backdrop of a sci-fi flick.
Their forward-thinking design and gravitas suck you in, yet at the same time sling shot Busan into the future. They proudly let the world know Korea’s second largest city is forging its own destiny. Some see a cold pile of glass and steel. But like the skylines of New York and Hong Kong, they represent the triumph of man: straight from the pages of an Ayn Rand novel.
In only just a few years, this port city of 4 million has grown at a frenetic pace only Korean cities can. The Haeundae district, where the cluster of new towers are located, has seen the biggest changes. From the 80th floor, you can see what looks like a ski jump for giants below. The letters on the shiny gray slope spell BIFF. It’s actually the world’s largest cantilevered roof, and home to the Busan International Film Festival. The city recently sank $150 million to create the iconic Busan Cinema Center. In fact, city officials were so pleased with the building they made the designer Wolf D Prix an honorary citizen.
Every year, the movie industry’s power brokers and stars take part in the biggest and most important film festival in Asia. The Hollywood Reporter calls BIFF “an essential stop on the international festival calendar. With an increasingly robust market to attract dealmaking, Busan boasts the cream of the Asian film sector as well as Hollywood A-listers like Oliver Stone.”
Busan is hoping that the marriage of art and architecture will help it rebrand itself as a tourist hot spot. The Hollywood effect, along with other efforts to improve the city, seems to be taking hold. It’s not uncommon to see cruise ships in Busan’s port where there were once only container ships.
As anyone who has travelled around Asia knows, Korean dramas, movies, and music are popular throughout the continent. Still though, Korea is not one of Asia’s most visited countries. Without a Great Wall or Siem Riep to draw in tourists, the city has to find ways to live up to its self-proclaimed “Dynamic” moniker. Being surrounded by water and cut off from the rest of Asia by North Korea doesn’t help much either.
But then again, the city’s relative anonymity is what makes it such an interesting destination. Even though Busan’s population is similar to that of Berlin and Los Angeles, it still feels like a big village. Unlike in Seoul, it’s not that common to see foreigners here. Children smile and say “hello” to you on the street, and you still get the occasional stare at the market. Busan tobbagi’s or locals are extremely proud and almost overly friendly. They seem to fit every cliché of port city inhabitants: rough, raw, and weathered by the sea, yet genuine and warm-hearted.
The other day a local stopped me in the street. He asked me if I wanted to take a tour of the city. It was a first and I couldn’t believe it. Has my home at the edge of Asia become a destination? I looked across the water at the I’Park skyscrapers and wondered what’s next. Will there be a tourist road full of cheap backpacker bars and hostels, or street carts selling ‘Same Same But Different’ t-shirts? Probably not, but that’s why you should come here.
What to do One of the best ways to pack in many sites in a short amount of time is to take the Busan City Tour (citytourbusan.com). Hop on board one of the open-air double decker busses and cruise around the city in comfort. There are a few different routes you can take. You can get on and off the bus at each stop. The tour starts from Busan Station. Another great way to see Busan is by sea. Take a Covea Cruise (coveacruise.com) past Haeundae Beach, Dongbaek Island, and under the Gwangan Bridge. Both the bus and boat tours offer night trips, a must do on any Busan checklist.
Busan has a handful of interesting museums worth checking out. The most famous is the Museum of Metropolitan Art (art.busan.go.kr), just down the road from Shinsegae Centum City. For history buffs, the Busan Museum (museum.busan.go.kr) has exhibitions ranging from the Paleolithic Period up to today. Of particular interest is the Korea-Japan relationship room, with mock-ups of city streets during the days of the Japanese occupation. The National Maritime Museum (nmm.go.kr) just opened in July and is getting strong reviews. Finally, the Busan Aquarium (busanaquarium.com) right on Haeundae Beach is also a great place to explore. Watch sharks, manta rays, and other ocean life swim overhead as you walk through the sea tunnel.
Many of Busan’s neighborhoods are in the pockets and valleys between mountains. Some excellent hiking awaits just outside your door. The most popular hike is up to Geumjeongsan Fortress. Take the subway to Oncheonjang Station and walk or take a short cab ride to the Geumgang Park Cable Car (geumgangpark.bisco.or.kr), where you can ride up close to the peak. Once there, you can hike along the ridge to see the centuries old gate and walls of Korea’s largest fortress. If you are looking for a beautiful seaside hike, head to Kyungsung University station and take a short cab ride to Igidae. It’s a seaside trail complete with cliff-side suspension bridges and sweeping views of the Gwangan Bridge.
Buddhism in Korea dates back to the 4th century CE. Today there are over 11 million followers in the country, and it plays an important role in Korean culture. Beomeosa (beomeosa.co.kr) is Busan’s most important temple with a history dating back 1,300 years. It’s a sprawling complex nestled in the hills of Geumjang Mountain. To get there, take the subway to the station named after the temple, then take bus 90 from exit 5 or 7. Haedong YonggungsaTemple (yongkungsa.or.kr) is also a popular with locals and tourists alike. Its location on the edge of a rocky outcropping overlooking the sea is original. Take the subway to Haeundae station, then bus 181 from exit 7.
One of the best ways to experience Korea is at one of its many spas. Spa Land Centum City, located inside the Shinsegae Department Store, is one of the newest and nicest in the city. The only downside is that it can get quite crowded, especially on the weekends. The sauna at Hotel Homers (homershotel.com) on Gwangan Beach offers amazing views of the Gwangan Bridge, from the comfort of your hot tub. If you haven’t been to a spa, you haven’t been to Korea.
Where to shop Shopping in Busan rivals that of any other major city. The top place to shop and a destination in and of itself is Shinsegae Centum City (shinsegae.com). In 2009 it passed Macy’s Department Store in New York to become the largest department store in the world. It’s even registered in the Guinness Book of World Records. From Gucci to Luis Vuitton, you can find it all under one roof, along with a movie theater, spa, skating rink and a hundred other things. Be sure to grab a bite to eat from the food court in the basement! For something more traditional, try the Gukje Shijang or International Market in Nampodong. It’s great for finding traditional trinkets, posters of Korean movie stars, and smaller shops selling clothes by local designers. You might not find the most fashionable items around but it has much more character than other places. Follow any one of the streets leading out of the market and you find even more shops, cafes, and restaurants. There are bargains to be had along the streets around the main gate of Pusan National University. The area is full of street vendors and shops that cater to a trendy yet budget conscious university crowd.
Where to eat
Saengseon hoe (pronounced hway) is sliced raw fish, like Japanasese sashimi, and Busan has some of the most delicious in Korea. JagalchiMarket in Nampodong, is Korea’s largest seafood market. Just point to the live fish you want to eat on the first floor, then head up to the second floor to eat it at one of the many restaurants. Even if you’re not going to eat any fish, the market is well worth a look. Another popular place to eat raw fish is at the Millak Raw Fish Town at the east end of Gwangali Beach. The only thing Busanites eat more than raw fish is grilled meat. Be it pork, duck, or chicken, Korean barbecue is always a culinary highlight. Any restaurant with a grill in the middle of the table will do. Just pick one! If you are in the neighborhood near Kyungsung University (KSU), be shure to try grilled pork by the kilo at Noxen Drumtong (051 621-9007), a local favorite.
Where to stay
Most Korean’s who visit Busan prefer to stay at the Paradise Hotel (busanparadisehotel.co.kr). It’s one of the few hotels located right on Haeundae Beach. It boasts an outdoor pool and hot spring overlooking the sea, casino, duty free shop, sauna, and the city’s hottest night club in the basement: Elune.
The Westin Chosun (starwoodhotels.com), at the other end of Haeundae Beach, is also a big favorite. It has a more laid back feel than the Paridise. It’smore secluded since it sits at the opposite end of Haeundae beach.
Live with monks at a Temple Stay (eng.templestay.com) in Beomeosa Temple. According to their website, the standard program features chanting services, 108 prostrations, Dado (tea ceremony), and has a strong emphasis on Seon Meditation. There is also a freestyle Templestay program that consists of Seon Meditation and tea and conversation with the monks. This enables participants to sit in meditation or rest as they like.
What’s happening in October
- Busan Film Festival (biff.kr); October 4-13
- Fireworks Festival; (bff.or.kr) October 26-27
- Busan Biennale: International Culture & Art Festival (busanbiennale.org); September 22 – November 24
For more info:
- Busan Haps: The ultimate resource for what’s happening in Busan
- For 91 Days Busan: Travel Blog
- Dynamic Busan: Official Information Portal
- Korea Tourism Organization
Local Interview:
Name: Bobby McGill
From: Bay Area, California
Time in Busan: 10 years in Busan
Occupation: Bobby McGill is the founder and editor in chief of Busan’s biggest English magazine, Busan Haps, as well as an international studies professor and PhD candidate.
1. Why did you choose to come to Busan?
I originally came to Busan as part of a one year Asian sabbatical from journalism to write “the great American novel.” I got hooked and after a brief time back in the states decided Busan would be my home base from which to explore the rest of the region. That was 10 years ago, and I’m still here, with no departure date in sight and, unfortunately, still no novel.
2. What is your favorite restaurant in Busan?
My favorite restaurant is a Korean BBQ spot near my home in Haeundae called Anga. They’ve got a great selection of meat, tasty Korean side dishes and ice cold Asahi on tap. I usually fill myself to the brim there and walk it off along the beach, which is about a 5 to 10 minute trek on foot from the restaurant.
3. If you only had one day in Busan, what would you do?
Being American, I think the long history of the area is what appeals to me most. If I had one day I would likely stick to the Geumjeong Mountain region. Aside of some stunning views of the valley below, there is Geumjeong Mountain Fortress which was built in the early 18th century following an invasion by Japan and two by the Manchus in the preceding centuries before.
Another great spot in the same area is the 7th century-era Beomeosa Temple which is buried atop this gorgeous mountain range, just a few hour hike down the ridge from the fortress. It’s every bit the serene temple setting that most of us who have never been to such a place would imagine it to be.
4. How is Busan different from the other cities you have lived in?
I spent nearly all of my life in California and Florida and while Busan has some nice beaches, they don’t have the same draw for me as the mountains here.
Local Interview 2:
German photographer Juergen Horn and American travel writer Michael Powell are the duo behind For91Days.com. Born wanderers, they move to an interesting new city once every three months. Here’s what they had to say about living in Busan.
1. Why did you choose to come to Busan?
We have a lot of Korean friends, and all had good things to say about Korea’s second city. It’s more laid-back than Seoul and not as well known, which was one of the draws for us. Also, we’re really into hiking and Busan is perfect for that!
2. What is your favorite restaurant in Busan?
That’s hard, because we’ve had a lot of great meals. The food is possibly our favorite thing about Busan! Sashimi at the Millak Raw Fish Market was unforgettable, but probably our favorite restaurant was Dolgorae, in Nampodong. This über-popular neighborhood joint in Nampodong serves up delicious Sundubu Baekban (spicy tofu soup), but you might have to wait in line for a table!
3. If you only had one day in Busan, what would you do?
We’d start the day at the Jagalchi Fish Market, which is the biggest in South Korea and really emblematic of Busan, and have a freshly prepared lunch, straight from the sea. Then, we’d possibly go for a quick hike; perhaps Igidae, which is easy and accessible. We’d spend the evening at one of the bars or restaurants on Gwangalli Beach, for the great atmosphere and view over the Diamond Bridge. And then party the night away in the KSU (Kyungsung University) neighborhood!
4. How is Busan different from the other cities you have lived in?
It’s easily the most modern and technologically advanced city we’ve lived in. Everything here is so organized and easy to navigate. This is the first time we’ve lived in East Asia, so the food and culture are completely new to us. Also, the mountains and parks of Busan are definitely unique; we’ve never lived in a city with so much beautiful nature so easily accessible.